Think Kenya, and you think safari, right? Or perhaps, less favourably, you're familiar with the capital's other name: 'Nairobbery'.
But dismiss both stereotypes and you'll quickly fall in love by East Africa's most cosmopolitan city. Nairobi is the youngest, the most modern, and the fastest growing place in Africa. It's Kenya's beating heart, a giant melting pot of locals, tourists and expats simply trying to find their way round this hectic but oh-so exciting concrete jungle.
It's a city that demands your attention, meaning if you're not ready you can easily be caught off guard. To help, ELLE have compiled everything you need to know before heading off.
Where To Stay
From the simple to the sublime, accommodation in Nairobi has pretty much got you covered. If you want to wake up amid the hustle and bustle, aim for the city centre. Between Tom Mboya St and River Rd, you'll find lots of small hotels and guesthouses.
For something a little more peaceful, the dusitD2 Nairobi is worth checking out. A five-star hotel, it's nestled amongst the leafy suburb of 14 Riverside Drive. Six months after a fateful terrorist attack forced the resort to shut its door, they're now back - and doing better than ever.
The building is vast, with 101 rooms, gym facilities, several restaurants, a bar/lounge, 'gourmet' deli and pool area . Their USP, however, is top-notch hospitality. The staff are professional, helpful and extremely attentive (the doorman will ask - and remember - your name).
You're in no shortage of places to eat, either. Breakfast is located in the super stylish Soko Restaurant, grab a snack from Soko Gourmet - their upscale deli - or unwind on the Rouge Deck and wonder at the sight of a red pool (and iconic red tree - see below). The new SOI restaurant, which 'celebrates a twist on pan-Asian cuisine', is an absolute must - the food is delicious. And if the city is playing catch-up on everyone's cocktail obsession, those served in Zing Lounge and Bar are very much up there in quality.
Looking to relax? The hotel's Devarana Spa ('garden in heaven') is often quoted as one of the best in Nairobi. Treatments cover everything from body scrubs to massages and mint baths (yes they're a thing, and they sound fun). If you're after a comfy but super stylish stay, the dusitD2 is your go to. Rooms start from £155 per night (room only).
Another good five-star option is Azure Hotel, located in Westlands (about four kilometres north west of the city centre). On arrival, the blue towers loom large from up above. The outdoor swimming pool is fun (if freezing - we visited in winter), while each room is super spacious and airy, complete with high speed wi-fi. Price-wise, you get an extremely good deal for your money. Book via Hotels.com, rooms start from £88 per night.
Nearby is The Concord Hotels & Suites, which features a spa, sauna and fitness centre. The rooms are spacious, but the hotel itself can feel a little worn-out. Breakfast is included in the price (from £122 per night on Hotels.com) and offers a wide selection of Kenyan and international food. You're also a short distance from Diamond Plaza, a shopping centre with excellent Indian restaurants.
For those wanting to truly escape, try Sovereign Suites. Located between Limuru and Banana Town, the luxury boutique hotel is a mere half hour's drive from the city. Set on acres of perfectly-groomed grounds, and featuring its own lake, it makes the perfect peaceful getaway.
With just 14 private suites, each room is enormous. You'll not only find a large four-poster bed, sprawling bathroom (complete with jacuzzi) and a room devoted entirely to housing your luggage, but also an equally massive balcony (ours overlooked the pool). The service is top-notch - the staff knew immediately who I was on arrival (a touch when you're a lone traveller). Rooms start from £107 per night.
If that's out of your price range, budget travellers can take their own tent and camp out in the wilderness; the national parks have basic sites with toilets and taps - and are definitely worth checking out.
How To See As Many Animals As Possible
Sure, one of Africa's Africa's most popular reserves, the Maasai Mara, is located in southwestern Kenya, along the Tanzanian border, and is home to the wildebeest migration (anyone who's anyone will tell you to visit during this period).
But if time is limited, 95% of Kenya's wildlife species can be seen in Nairobi's own National Park. This is the only place in the world where you can go on a real safari with a backdrop of towering skyscrapers. And what better way to practise your wildlife watching skills before moving on? Just seven kilometres from the CBD, you'll spot everything from antelope, to buffalo herds, lions, zebras and hyenas on the prowl.
Located nearby is the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, which raises orphaned elephants and black rhinos, with the purpose of introducing them back into the wild. Between eleven and noon, visitors can watch the parade of baby elephants being fed and rolling around in mud baths.
They're cute, but don't wear your best whites - these guys love to spray browny red water over unsuspecting tourists. In addition, you'll learn about elephant conservation and the challenges Kenya's elephants face in the wild. We tacked our visit onto the end of four hours in the National Park - your taxi driver can easily take you.
There's also the famous Langata Giraffe Centre, which protects the highly endangered Rothschild's giraffe. For just £7, you can either feed these beautiful six-metre beasts or stand back and watch. You can also quite literally rub noses with one of the giraffes from a raised wooden structure (put a treat in your mouth and try not to freak out).
There's also the option of staying in the nearby Giraffe Manor. Prices aren't exactly cheap, but when a giraffe may or may not poke his head through your window in the morning, it's probably worth every penny.
Food & Drink
A word of warning: vegetarians may struggle in Nairobi. Despite being a cosmopolitan city, local Kenyan fare is very much meat-based: expect nyama choma (Swahili for 'roast meat'), ugali (stodgy maize porridge - its a Kenyan staple) and vegetables such as spinach.
For good, honest local cuisine try Ranalo Foods, near the CBD. Fish is the speciality here, true to the restaurant's Luo roots in western Kenya. The coconut fish stew with ugali or rice is also a popular choice. Another cheap (but equally tasty) local haunt is Kilimanjaro Jamia, featuring Somali, Swahili and Indian dishes.
The Alchemist Bar is great for both food, drink and live music. Outside is the Mama Rocks food court, serving up a variety of delicious African-inspired gourmet burgers, while the bar doubles up as an event space (holding movie nights every Wednesday) and nightclub.
If none of that piques your fancy, J's Fresh Bar (in Westlands) pays homage to the British gastropub. The battered fish and chips and Szechuan-peppered squid have got foodies excitedly talking. You'll find weekly events, like old-school hip-hop and R&B on Tuesdays and Thursday Night Live, a showcase for local bands.
Getting Around
International flights land at Jomo Kenyatta Airport, located 15km beyond the Central Business Distrcit (CBD). In the city lies Wilson Airport, which offers domestic services and charter flights.
Don't leave without getting on a matatu (or minivan), which provide access to the suburbs. Blaring music as they bounce and weave through traffic, imagine a nightclub on wheels and you're nearly there (its said they inspired the MTV show Pimp My Ride). Essentially, the more eye-catching and noisy, the better. Cheap (you'll be charged 30KES max, which is 20p), convenient and sometimes a little chaotic, matatus are the choice mode of transport for most Kenyans. You will, however, need to keep an eye on your valuables.
Alternatively, Uber is extremely cheap here. Nairobi is known for its endemic street crime, so you've little choice at night. On the app you can pick from UberX, Chap Chap (smaller vehicle, slightly cheaper) or Boda (a motorbike, cheaper still but not always the safest - road safety isn't always a priority here).
Health
Check out Fit For Travel or NATHNAC for advice, which is used by GPs to assess health risks abroad. Make sure your hepatitis A, typhoid, diphtheria and tetanus jabs are up to date, while immunisation against yellow fever is recommended. Malaria is widespread, so antimalarial tablets are essential, and an insect repellent containing DEET will help keep mosquitoes at bay. Drink only bottled water.
Practicalities
Kenya's official currency is the Kenya shilling (Ksh). Bring along US dollars along as well because many hotels and larger restaurants tend to quote prices in US dollars.
Visitors are required to pay US$50 for a single entry visa that lasts up to three months. If Kenya isn't your only destination in Africa, you can opt to apply for an East Africa Tourist visa for US$100, which will allow you to travel between Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda for up to 90 days.
