Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden, the first floor dining room at the Angel & Crown serves up hearty, reasonably priced food with discerning foodies in mind. After a hefty revamp, this new-look gastro pub features everything you’d expect from a casual West End eatery, but with the added bonus of a spot right on St Martin’s Lane.

The latest addition to the ETM group’s collection of gastro pubs in London (which includes the Botanist on Sloane Square and The White Swan on Fetter Lane), the Angel & Crown pairs the muted tones of a Farrow & Ball colour chart, with all the charm and intimacy of a traditional country pub.

But it’s not just the décor that sets minds whirring. Serving up healthy sized portions of seasonal British produce paired with an easy-to-like wine list, the ambiance of the Angel & Crown gives its over-priced neighbors something to talk about. Service is unquestionably charming while the staff are happy to recommend the perfect dish and accompanying wine without sounding remotely pretentious.

With starters varying from £6 for ELLEuk’s favoured salt beef croquettes, to £8 for snails, bacon and pearl barley, you can easily forget you’re in the middle of Covent Garden and start dreaming of country pubs with delightful kitchen gardens. Pair that with oxtail and bone marrow pie or a perfectly cooked flank steak and chips and you’re back to understanding why pubs like this deserve to do well. We just about managed to finish off a rhubarb and stem ginger crumble with custard before calling it a night and heading back downstairs to the bustling pub and theatre-goers.

The ELLEuk Score

Food: 9

Ambience: 8

Service: 9

Value: 7

Good for: Quick bite after work; pre-theatre; special occasion; first date; group; dinner; work lunch/dinner; Sunday lunch

Style of food: Modern British fare served with a twist

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Prices & Other Details at the Angel & Crown

Address: 58 St Martin’s Lane, London, WC2N 4EA

Price per person for two-course meal without wine: £50

Set menu: Pre- and post-theatre menus (from 5pm-6.30pm and 10pm-11pm) are £14.95 for 2 courses or £17.95 for 3

Bottle of house wine: £16.50, ETM Cuvee Freres Martin (white and red)

Glass of house wine: £4.10, ETM Cuvee Freres Martin white and red)

Bottle of house champagne: £36, Ridgeview, Cavendish, England 2008; or £26, Prosecco, Verduzzo NV

Glass of house champagne: £5, Prosecco; or £7.50, Joseph Perrier, Cuvée Royale, Chalons NV

Private dining? Yes. The Dining Room can be reserved and holds up to 40

Outdoor dining? No

Who goes? Theatre-goers and anyone looking for a decent, reasonably priced meal in the West End

Nearest tube: Covent Garden or Piccadilly Circus