The Runway Rundown: Dior's AW23 Couture Show Embodied Quiet Luxury
Everything you need to know about Dior's AW23 haute couture show in Paris.
Understated elegance was the running theme throughout the opulent Dior Haute Couture 2023 show in Paris on Monday afternoon. Kicking off the grandiose fashion week with a bang, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri had guests gather in the garden of Musée Rodin to witness her ingenious 66-strong haute AW23 collection, which encapsulated ultimate modern-day quiet luxury.
From the women philosophers littering this season’s Dior AW23 couture mood board to the silhouettes which were fashioned based on the simplicity of Greek and Roman antiquity, here’s everything you need to know about the stellar collection.
The Setting
Staged in a tent in the Musée Rodin, attendees were surrounded by scenography created by Italian artist Marta Roberti, Chiuri’s collaborator for the breathtaking show. Artwork by Roberti was embordered by the Chanakya workshop in Mumbai and displayed throughout the tent informed by iconographies of various goddesses.
Days before the show, Chiuri teased glimpses of the inspiration behind the collection, sharing shorts of philosopher Adriana Cavarero discussing female narratives in ancient mythology, along with an image of a book by French philosopher and political activist, Simone Weil.
The Front Row
Among the A-list guests was actor Natalie Portman, who opted to wear one of the storied house’s strapless evening dresses comprising silk taffeta jacquard with poppies enveloping the dress, complimented with a pair of open-toe heels. Following suit and nailing a refined, demure look, Rosamund Pike slipped into a floor-sweeping black, couture gown from the SS23 line. Allowing the dress its moment in the spotlight – and rightly so – she kept her makeup minimal and decided on a deep-side part with slicked-back locks. While White Lotus star Alexandra Daddario wore a cream bouclé jacket with a white top and a matching cream airy skirt with bow detailing and kitten heel pumps.
The Collection
Intricate, diaphanous gowns flowed throughout the gardens, and Chiuri drove home the need for a timeless wardrobe. Pared-back colours dominated the clothing, with silvers, whites, beige, gold, and black hues taking centre stage. Soundtracked to Christine and the Queens hauntingly powerful track ‘To be Honest’, models sauntered down the runway in other-worldly pieces with the sublime craftsmanship demonstrated via the use of ‘pleats, draping and tucks’ which were ‘masterfully employed to sculpt fabrics around the body, to create volume, and a sense of liberated movement’, revealed the brand post-show.
Naturally, Dior’s impeccable ability to home in waist-detailing was evidenced by structured folds, flaring diaphanous tops evoking statues and column gowns. Accents of shimmering metallic materials were woven into plunging lame gowns, and iridescent detailing appeared in addition to beaded mesh swirls and footwear festooned with pearls.
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