The old maxim, 'it takes a village,' has always had a special resonance in the fashion world where ateliers full of pattern cutters, sewers and embroiderers bring collections to life. But for the west London-born, British-Nigerian designer, Tolu Coker, community is not just a matter of logistics, but ethos. Her SS23 collection, a lineup of upcycled denim, earth-hued leather and sustainably-sourced linen, was inspired by a range of collectives — from the women of the Bible to Black churches in Chicago — and assembled with the help of her close network.
'Some of the artisans I work with are in their sixties and seventies – they're so important in my process of design and understanding,' she says. ‘My neighbours are the most incredible people ever,' Coker says. 'My mum will ask them to cut lace, and suddenly there’s a room full of people helping, even when they have no clue what they’re making.' She describes enlisting a group of friends to take turns as fit models, allowing her to craft a breath-taking braided gown, ornament and headpiece made of kanekalon (usually used in synthetic hair extensions) on their bodies — a six month labour of love. It’s this authenticity that has earned her a growing list of famous fans in recent years, including Rihanna and Thandiwe Newton.
Coker's work has a vintage sensibility, an influence that began during her childhood years rummaging for treasures every weekend at the St Augustine’s car boot sale on Kilburn Road, north London – her Yoruba parents’ favourite pastime. Later, as a teen at the age of 14, she met Central Saint Martins fashion and textiles lecturer Berni Yates ('my guardian angel') at her local youth club, before going on to study fashion design and textile print at TKSCHOOL. Stints in the design studios of JW Anderson, Celine and Maison Margiela followed before she launched her eponymous line in 2018.
'Within Yoruba culture, so many different things are ingrained within our fabric – how we commemorate those we've lost or how different colours denote where you're from. There’s real communication there,' she says. 'Clothing, for me, is almost like the by-product,' she says.
Her late father’s clothing is integral to her current work, she says. ‘My dad passed suddenly, and I remember the work of having to go through his suitcases and trying to piece together these stories. His clothing became an artefact and held a remembrance of a time and place. That’s the feeling I'm always working with when I'm designing.’
As for what the future holds, Coker recently won the British Fashion Council's NEWGEN award, joining a legendary pantheon of alumni including Richard Quinn, Simone Rocha and Jonathan Anderson. And the heightened attention has made her a rising talent to watch this fashion month where she plans to show in London. But Coker is quick to point out that her vision extends beyond fashion.
A self-described 'multi-disciplinary artist and lecturer' whose work has been recognised by Prada and the artist Theaster Gates, she's keen to pursue storytelling across multiple platforms: ‘I'm at a place where I feel like I have the most autonomy that I've had in the longest time and there’s such freedom in that.
This article was originally published in the September issue of ELLE UK, out now.
