Between our teen tendencies to over pluck, the sea of confusing eyebrow products out there, and our complete lack of artistic ability, getting our eyebrows to the point of Insta-worthy rather than cringe-worthy can be an absolute minefield.
Don't even get us started on what shape they're actually meant to be. Are straight brows so fashion but so not flattering? Or are arches totally 2019?
We called on Head Make-Up Artist and National Brow Expert for Benefit, Lisa Potter-Dixon, founder of The Browgal and microblading expert, Tonya Crooks and owner of The London Dolls salon, Beth Camilleri, to help us navigate every eyebrow mistake and explain how to avoid them ASAP. Three pros, a whole lot of expert knowledge.
So what are the most common eyebrow mistakes people make? 'People are going too big on their brows,' says Camilleri. 'They think that more is better- so let the tails on their brows finish lower than their bulb (which can really age people as a higher brow makes you look more awake and young) - so much so it does not suit their face shape and I would recommend stepping back and thinking what does suit them.'
How to do your eyebrows the right way? See below.
1.The Block Front
Where you've gone wrong...
Otherwise known as the 'Scouse' brow, blocky, square fronts are the opposite of a natural looking eyebrow.
'Do not ever use one of those brow stencils!', says The London Dolls' Beth Camilleri.
How to get it right...
'Go free hand and just like you would do eyeliner- rest your elbow on a table and use soft stokes with a fine tuned nib!', advises Camilleri.
2. The 'Tadpole'
Where you've gone wrong...
'Ok, so the tadpole brow, named because it literally looks like that big headed squirmy thing that you can find in a pond, is usually trend led. If you were a 90’s teenager, this is potentially the brow you’re stuck with thanks to Kate moss,' says Lisa.
'Too much weight at the front of the brow, followed by a thin tail, isn’t flattering for anyone. It’s an odd balance which tends to make your brows the main focus of the face for all the wrong reasons.'
How to get it right...
'The starting point is to see whether or not your hair still grows around the brow. To do this, you need to leave them for about 6 weeks. Infuriating but so worth it,' explains Lisa.
'Try using a brow conditioner, morning and night, to encourage fuller looking brows. If all else fails, it could be worth looking into microblading, but do your research if you’re considering this!'
3. Too long
Where you've gone wrong...
'This is where the tail of the brow extends too far into the temple area of the face, and can often lead to a drooping effect,' says Tonya.
How to get it right...
'When filling in the brow, line your pencil from the point where the nostril meets the bridge of the nose, to the outside of your eye – where this intersects with your brow is where it should finish, so use light, feathery strokes to cheat the appearance of real hairs.'
4. Too short
Where you've gone wrong...
'This is more than likely an age thing rather than a fault of your own,' says Lisa. 'As we get older, we tend to lose the tail of the brow. Men’s brows never stop growing, (although neither does their nose and ear hair), and our brows get thinner. (I know what I’d prefer!).'
How to get it right...
'Filling your brows in with a fibre gel is the easiest option. This adheres to the skin and the hair and will give you a natural, volumised finish,' explains Lisa. 'To measure where the eyebrow should end, take a make-up brush, hold it against the corner of the nose and at the angle of the end of the eye, this is where the brow should end, so lengthen to there with the gel.
'Doing this will lift the appearance of your cheekbones and balance the face.'
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5. They look painted on
Where you've gone wrong...
'Being too heavy-handed is a sure-fire way to create blocky, painted on brows that never look natural and often appear as if the brows have been coloured in,' says Tonya.
How to get it right...
'Use light strokes to create individual hairs on the brows. If using a pencil, ensure it’s as sharp as can be - I trained as an artist first and I would never draw with a blunt pencil. You need precision to achieve good brows!'
6. Your arch is all over the place
Where you've gone wrong...
'An arch that is too far forward or too far back can change the entire shape of your face,' explains Lisa. 'You want your brows to start, arch and end in the right place as your eyebrows frame your face and make a big difference to your overall look.'
How to get it right...
'Brow mapping is key. Now, you won’t have to do this every time you do your brows as you’ll get into a routine once you’ve done it a few times.
'First, take a make-up brush, and starting at the corner of the nose, hold the brush straight up. This is where your brow should start. If it starts in the right place, your nose will look thinner.
'Mark the point with a brow pencil or powder. For the arch, hold the brush at the corner of the nose and angle it through the centre of the eye, This is where your brow should arch. If it arches in the right place, your eyes look wider and bigger. Mark the point.
'And for the end, go from the corner of the nose and angle to the outer corner of the eye. If your brow ends in the right place your cheekbones will look lifted. Mark here.
'Then join the marks together using your fave brow product. Remember to do hair like stokes where possible to create a natural looking brow-then remove the marks. You will now have the most perfect shaped brows for your face shape. You’re welcome!'
7. Wrong colour
Where you've gone wrong...
'An issue with a lot of brow products on the market is that they are too warm, and eyebrows are inherently cool-toned. Even celebs like Jessica Chastain, who has red hair, have cooler toned eyebrows than the hair on her head,' says Tonya.
'When I started out as a make-up artist I could never find the right shade of brow products for models and customers, I had to mix products together which is what inspired me to create my own product range.'
How to get it right...
'Try matching the colour of your brows to the roots of your hair and make sure you choose a brow pencil with a cool undertone.'
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8. Overplucked
Where you've gone wrong...
'Its simple, you’re addicted to the tweezers!! Put them down!,' commands Lisa.
How to get it right...
'See a brow expert. These guys are the pros and can help you get your brows back to your dream shape (although this may take time so be patient). Tinting is also a great way to get your brows looking thicker instantly, so definitely give that a go too. Think of it like this, you woudn’t cut your own hair, would you?'
9. They're the wrong shape for your face
Where you've gone wrong...
'Your unique brow shape works perfectly for your facial structure, and many brow artists make the mistake of over plucking to achieve an arch when actually, it won’t suit your face,' says Tonya.
How to get it right...
'Follow your natural shape. I categorise brows into three shapes. If your eyebrow has a sharp incline and decline, it is an ARCH.
'If the curve is softer, and slightly rounder, then it is an ARC. If there is little height in your brow, then it is STRAIGHT. Use brow products to accentuate that shape, rather than trying to create a shape you haven’t got and most probably won’t suit you.'
10. They're twins, not sisters
Where you've gone wrong...
'The phrase ‘brows are sisters and not twins’ is something I definitely live by', says Tonya. 'Faces are rarely perfectly symmetrical and so by extension, brows can be different.'
How to get it right...
'Choose your best brow, and then base the shape of the other on that. Use a brow pencil to fill in the weaker brow first, and then remove any outlying hairs once you’ve achieved your perfect shape.'
14 Of The Best Eyebrow Make-Up Products To Buy Now
Best For Filling Brows
Benefit Precisely, My Brow Pencil - £22.50
The super-fine nib on this pencil allows you to sketch on life-like hairs with ease. It comes in 12 shades too, so you won't end up with two-toned brows.
Best For Brows That Hold All Day
Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze - £24
If you want the effects of brow lamination but without the whole process (and cost) then this is the one for you. With a few quick swipes of this on a spooly, your brows will stay put all.day.long. Unlike other clear gels, this leaves no visible flakiness either.
Best For Instant Volume
BBB London Brow Build Gel - £20
There are many brow gels to choose from, but this one just does a little bit more that most. Heftily pigmented, it adds instant thickness as the formula grips to the hairs, and holds even the heaviest of hairs to attention.
Best Brows On A Budget
e.l.f. Ultra Precise Brow Pencil - £6
Proving that budget buys can be just as brilliant as their swankier counterparts, this brow pencil fills, defined and lasts as well as the best of them. Unlike many other bargain versions, it comes with a spooly end too.
Best For Brow Growth
bareMinerals Strength & Length Serum-Infused Tinted Brow Gel - £18
Strengthening peptides and growth-inducing Red Clover Flower extract boost this brow gel, meaning not only will you brows look instantly filled and defined, but over time they'll grow thicker and fuller too.
Best Brow Gel
Glossier Boy Brow - £14
The one step genius eyebrow product that gives you instantly thicker, brushier brows a la Glossier models in under 60 seconds.
Best Brow Powder
Bobbi Brown Brow Kit - £38
An oldie but a goodie, the powders (available in 3 shade combinations) are easy to apply without the dreaded fall-out. Good for a natural, soft brow.
Best Brow Pen
MAC Shape & Shade Brow Tint - £19.50
If the idea of painting on pomade or dealing with a powder formula terrifies you, this fail-safe pen might be a good option. The felt-tip like nib allows you to flick little hair-like lines in, applying a bit more pressure when you want a more intense finish.
Best Waterproof Brow Product
Lancôme Sourcils Eye Brow Gel Cream - £18
We're not saying you should do your brows before you hit the beach, gym or club. But if you want to, and don't want the colour running down your face, this hard-wearing, water-proof formula is perfect.
Best Brow Shade Range
Fenty Brow MVP - £17
Brow shades aren't just a case of blond, brown, red or black, so sometimes it's tricky to find that perfect match. Enter Rihanna, and her 14 shades, from ashy blond to deep black.
Best Brow Pencil
Hourglass Arch Brow Micro Sculpting Pencil - £27
The teeny-tiny nib of this pencil gives hair-thin strokes, so the result is a natural, fluffy effect. Use a light hand and simply set with a clear gel.
Best At-Home Tint
Maybelline Tattoo Brow Easy Peel Off Tint - £12.99
An at-home tint of sorts, this will add colour and shape to your brows for up to 3 days. It's super simple to use, and the results aren't at all as scary as the word 'tattoo' implies.
Best Brow Pomade
Anastasia Beverley Hills Dipbrow Pomade - £19
A cult product, this hard-wearing pomade is creamy and buildable. A tip from the founder herself is that eyebrows should always be filled in ombre. 'Start by filing the brow from the highest arch point to the outer brow tip' says Anastasia Soare, 'and then with less pressure and product, lightly fill in the inner part of the brow.'
Best Brow Soap
Soap Brows Kit - £12.50
Soap? For your brows? You better believe it. If feathery, Insta-worthy boy brows are your goal, then one swipe of this will give you natural-looking brows that stay put for hours on end.
