The Rise and Rise of Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou was widely regarded as the highlight of London Fashion Week last season. It was a breakthrough collection that marvelled editors and buyers alike. And from such great heights... Mary jumped even higher.

Her signature chintzy fabrics and stiff lampshape skirts were still very much a mainstay. Mary designs for the 3D frame and the results show in the jutting peplum hips and corseted bandeau dresses moving like sculptures down the catwalk. Fabergé eggs and coromandel screens were her basis of her intricate prints. But Mary relaxed in to softer shapes that are far easier to wear than her previous showpieces that you wanted to hang up and admire rather than actually wear. And that's how she evolved her very strong DNA; by moulding her celebrated use of print on to sheer shirts, loose printed biker jackets and satin cap sleeved dresses.

Mary makes you look down at your outfit and wonder why you are so damn beige. The use of multi-layering created a powerful visual effect for the catwalk, but take each item on its own and even the most reserved dressers can access her creations. Now that’s progress.