With everyone from Emma Stone and Julianne Hough, to Lola Kirke taking the perm plunge, we've had a bit of a hair revelation. Turns out those giant, frazzled corkscrew curls as seen on Whitney, Cher and the rest of the 1980s isn't the only way to perm.
In fact, a perm might actually be the secret to attaining those elusive 'I just woke up like this' supermodel waves with little to no effort.
We caught up with A-list hairstylist and the woman almost solely responsible for the unexpected return of the perm, Mara Roszak, and pro hair legend Charlotte Mensah to talk going curly for good...
Why are perms making a comeback? Shouldn't they stay in the 80s?
'If you think about it, the 80s were a very bold time. Women were bold and expressed that in many ways and weren't shy about it. I feel as though women are reclaiming that space,' says Roszak. 'It is about taking ownership. Beauty is a form of expression, it's about how we want to feel and not about anyone else.'
What's different about the modern perm?
'We've created the mareWAVE and it's customised to each woman based on the way the rods are placed and the size we use, making it uniquely personal,' explains Roszak. 'We are really focused on each perm being totally authentic to each woman. In the 80s, the process was the same - restructuring your hair to go from straight to wavy - but you were way more limited with your options.
'If you want a beachier, more natural, smoother wave, we place the rods in a totally different direction. It’s all about placement, which will then determine the movement and shape.'
Something Mensah confirms, 'Gone are the days of the Jheri curls where people slept in a shower cap to avoid staining their pillows. The modern perms are all in the technique, the new wave is gentler and more of a soft loser curl. Instead of using traditional perm rods you can create different type of curls, from spiral coils to wavy hair. You can use rollers and flexi rods.'
Perms Dos And Don'ts
- Don’t use brushes, only wide -tooth combs
- Do use shampoo and conditioners that contain humectant and emollients.
- Don’t use rubber bands to tie the hair back - use covered silk bands instead.
- Do let your hair air-dry
- Do comb permed hair when you have conditioner in your hair after towel dry gently, and leave it alone
Do perms damage your hair?
'Perms dry out the hair considerably,' advises Mensah. 'Use leave-in conditioner to protect the hair without weighing down the curls. Use deep-conditioning treatments to replace lost moisture and protein treatments on a monthly basis depending on the condition of your hair.'
16 Best Hair Masks For Shinier, Stronger Strands
Color Wow and Chris Appleton Money Masque
'With long blonde and overly processed strands, my hair needs all the help it can get,' shares ELLE's Amelia Bell. 'Thankfully, this mask truly works wonders to repair my split ends. I use it as a weekly treatment and will sometimes even leave it in overnight when my lengths are looking especially parched; the next day it feels instantly healthier and shinier and a lot less damaged.'
Davines OI Absolute Beautifying Hair Butter
Truth be told, we’d recommend any and every Davines hair mask, but for very thick strands, it has to be the inexplicably named OI Hair Butter. It’s loaded with Amazonian roucou oil and really softens straggly strands, imparting major shine (and a white-floral scent) in the process. Leave it on for ten minutes, or let it linger overnight for the deepest of treatments.
Kèrastase Premiere Anti Breakage Advanced Filler Mask
I've been using Kérastase's most recent line since the start of the year, and honestly I can't quite bring myself to try much else. The matching shampoo works to remove the calcium that damaged hair soaks up (this will ring especially true if you live in a hard water area), then the mask rebuilds the damaged sections of each strand. If your hair is bleached or processed frequently, and a simple moisture mask doesn't quite cut it, don't hesitate.
Hair By Sam McKnight Deeper Love Treatment Mask
There is no-one better placed to create a haircare line than Sam McKnight. Throughout his incomparable career, he has worked on hair of every texture, colour and condition, and it's safe to say he knows exactly what works.
Now, McKnight has finally expanded his eponymous range to include shampoos, conditioners and styling products. The first thing to try? This lightweight yet deeply hydrating mask, which is best used before a big night out: expect shinier hair, less frizz, and a ridiculously delicious green scent (formulated by perfumer Lyn Harris, no less).
Leading stylist Adam Reed is a true Fragrance Head, so when we heard he was to launch his own line, we expected an aromatic treat. And boy were we right: this sensorial wonder imparts notes of fresh flowers and sticky rhubarb with every hair swish.
That's not all: of course, it works wonders on turning around dry, lacklustre lengths too. With shea butter, coconut oil and baobab oil, it's a recipe for seriously glossy strands. If your hair is simply lacking a little life, start with this one.
Bouclème Intensive Moisture Treatment
ELLE's Kara Kia recommends Bouclème's curly-girl approved line for anyone hoping to reinvigorate curls, coils, waves and kinks.
'I’ve tried dozens of deep conditioners over the years, and Bouclème’s Intensive Moisture Treatment is hands-down the best,' she says. 'I have multi-textured hair, a mix of 3b and 4a, and using this mask once a week has made a huge difference with frizz, hydration, and definition.'
'The ingredients are super-concentrated, there’s no strong smell, it has incredible slip for easy detangling on thick and Afro hair, and it works beautifully as a leave-in conditioner without weighing down wavy or looser curls. I always go back to this mask for a hair reset – especially after heat styling.'
Bread Beauty Supply Hair-Mask: Creamy Deep Conditioner
Finally breathing some much-needed life into the textured hair market is Bread Beauty Supply: the name to know if you're looking to make the most of your curls, coils or kinks. This pearly, lemon-scented conditioner delivers incredible slip to curls and ensures curls bounce into shape with serious shine. Trust us, try it.
Yes, this one costs as much as a big night out, but I think it's worth every penny. The extra-rich, mega-moisturising formula envelops hair in moisture, resulting in bigger, bouncier blow-dries with an unbelievably glossy shine. The scent is expensive - think Champagne-o-clock in St. Tropez – and the experience truly indulgent. You deserve a treat...
Sisley's ultra-luxe haircare line really does deliver on its promises. A recent launch, this deliciously scented hair mask has a precise acidic pH that helps to seal the cuticle of each strand, locking in your colour pigments and ensuring a smooth, light-reflecting surface. Ceramides and rich plant oils add plenty of moisture, ensuring even the fluffiest of hair dries smoothly – so much so, you'll likely forget all about the hair straighteners.
Yes, London's favourite fragrance house also makes some pretty great hair and body heroes. This moisture mask is as thick as they come and makes even the most parched of ends feel impressively soft. It rinses away with ease, but the scent thankfully lingers: a woody, heady incense blend that's every bit as good as the famous Santal 33.
Fun fact: the minerals in your shower water are likely preventing those expensive highlights from looking their best. Copper deposits in particular can lead lengths to take on a dull tinge: but thankfully, this clever mask is here to reverse the damage. Unlike a purple shampoo, which adds more colour to balance the warmth, this mask works by removing those unwanted deposits and feeding hair with moisture, resulting in brighter blondes and more vibrant browns. Genius.
Fine hair needs moisture, but so many masks leave thin strands overloaded – and there’s nothing more annoying than blow-drying your hair to find your roots are flat and lengths limp. L’oreal Paris’ jelly-like formula will slick over delicate lengths, imparting moisture while rinsing away with ease, so you’re left with nothing but silky strands. Consider this one proof that you don't have to spend a lot to get a product that delivers.
Cult line Virtue takes things one step further than most haircare brands. Central to the line is the brand's patented Alpha Keratin 60ku, which has the exact molecular structure as the keratin protein in our hair.
This means the formula can seek out strands in need of help and sink in seamlessly to repair from within. For hair that's recently been coloured, this is the investment to make.
It's no secret we love the original Olaplex bond-repair treatment, but we admit hopping in and out of the shower to use it is a bit of a faff. Lazy girls, listen up: this mask delivers all of the benefits of the famed original with none of the effort. Simply slick it on after your shampoo, wash your face, and enjoy your sleeker, stronger lengths.
Fable & Mane Fable & Mane HoliRoots Repairing Hair Mask
Fable & Mane's philosophy is to introduce Indian hair rituals into Western beauty practices – and if you're new to the brand, this hair mask is a great place to start. It smooths cuticles to combat frizz, breakage and stressed strands, with soothing fragrance notes of coconut and banana to keep you smelling sweet.
Act + Acre's trichologist-formulated products are ideal for delicate, breakable hair that needs treating extra nicely. The brand's hair mask contains a little protein alongside a lot of moisture, so it a great one for repairing moderately damaged hair. It's fairly rich, so ideal for thicker hair, and comes in the most genius waste-reducing aluminium packaging.
Can you perm textured hair?
'Perms are done using a chemical called ammonium thioglycolate often shortened to thio', explains Mensah.
'The process of perming Afro textured hair is twofold. First the thio based chemical is applied to remove the natural curl then rinsed off. The damp hair is set on rods, rollers or flexi rods and a waving solution called reshaping lotion is applied to set the hair in its new shape,' she continues.
'This is then rinsed off and neutralised. The neutraliser is the harshest phase of the process. Afro/textured hair tends to experience excessive breakage after a perm although this depends a lot on the skill of your stylist and your commitment to properly moisturise your hair daily.'
Can you perm dyed hair?
'Coloured hair can definitely get this process done now, thanks to the softer solution and rods we use on the hair,' says Roszak. 'It can even de-frizz and redefine naturally wavy hair.'
How long does getting a perm take?
'The process can take two hours depending on hair length. We start by discussing the texture and curl that you want, then place rods accordingly specific to what we've discussed. Two days later you can wash your hair and see your new waves dry naturally. I like to spray Davines Leave-In Detangling Mist for extra definition,' says Roszak.
How long does a perm last?
'It can last up to six months and it grows out really naturally with your own hair texture because the waves are much softer and customised to suit you.'
How should you look after your perm?
'After getting the process done it’s recommended to invest in a great conditioner. You want to make sure your waves stay hydrated. I like to use Davines Love Shampoo and Conditioner for curly hair.'
ELLE Edit: Your Perm Care Kit
Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil
Philip B Tortoiseshell Detangling Comb
Curl Charisma™ Rice Amino + Avocado Leave-In Defining Crème
Can you dye permed hair?
'You can dye permed hair but should consult your stylist before doing so,' advises Roszak.
What about heat styling?
'Hair can absolutely be blow dried and styled when permed! '
21 Of The Prettiest Curly Hairstyles Direct From The Red Carpet
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