By Amy Lawrenson

The woman is 'groomed, self-assured and sexy,' said Val Garland backstage. The look is tough chic.

The focus for the make-up was the eye - a slick of MAC Blacktrack in the waterline and along the lashline - top and bottom. Subtle contouring, barely-there separated lashes and a matte, natural lip using Mixing Medium in Matte was pretty much all the look required.

Over on hair Orlando Pita used spray-in conditioner before blow-drying hair and smoothing with irons. A deep side part and subtle movement ensured the look was wearable. It's a ' super clean, straight curtain of hair,' explained Pita.

Sophy Robson was inspired by the colours in the clothes to choose rich shades for the nails. 'A classic ring finger mani, it's strong considered and groomed. It's ladylike but a bit younger,' said Robson.

All models had MAC Nail Lacquer in Coffee Break, then either Midnight Orchid, a sumptuous purple, or Green Grey, a deep green, both metallic hues contrasted texturally with the creamy coffee hue.

'Chalayan wanted handsome hair,' Anthony Turner revealed. 'We're playing with androgyny with this hair, there is a tough side... literally, it's confident hair'.
Turner was inspired by skater boys for this hairstyle. Cool and effortless it balances the intricate clothes.

Turner used L'Oreal Professionnel Tecni.Art Full Volume Mousse slicked through the right-hand side of the hair and dried back with fingers. The idea is to create an 'action of movement, as if the hair has been raked through'. A low, strong parting continued the masculine theme, while the rest of the hair was blow-dried smooth.

Over on make-up Aaron de Mey was shifting the focus to the lip. Skin was dewy - moisture highlights and shiny eyelids - balancing out a matte, stained lip. de Mey applied MAC Lipstick in Hearts Aflame, a burgandy red, before softening the edges with a Q-tip. Using his finger he dabbed extra lipstick into the centre of the lips.

Another tough woman, this time inspired in part by aviator Amelia Earhart and Kate Moss in a David Sims' photograph. The look by Lucia Pieroni was a beautifully ruddy complexion, she's outdoorsy.

Bronzer was dusted over both cheeks and across the nose. A MAC Lipstick in Twig, a pinky nude, was applied just below the apples. Shine Mixing Medium was used sparingly on eyelids, cheekbones and Cupid's bow to add an outdoorsy sheen to the skin.

It's a look that suits all skintones, just go easier on fairer complexions and ramp up the application on dark skin tones.

AF Vandevorst:

On first glance this is another red lip, no mascara combo. But take a look closer and you may notice that the lip is two tone. It's red on red, first blue-toned MAC Ruby Woo is applied all over then the edges are blurred using an eyeshadow brush, before a blend of Lipmix in Orange and Pink are buffed into the centre.

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