The rise of the career coat
If Autumn/Winter 16 was the season of the puffer coat, AW17 is shaping up to be all about career outerwear — at least, so far in New York.
This is the piece you buy when you get that big promotion that finally qualifies you as senior management, the wardrobe item that communicates just how much you mean business. And it's popping up all over the place during NYFW. It's a power piece just as much as it is a show piece.
Let's have a look:
It was beautifully tailored and covered in plastic at Calvin Klein.
Reworked in voluminous Prince of Wales check at Alexander Wang.
Accented with bold shoulders and sleek, squiggly fasteners at Tibi.
And given a dramatic, sweeping length at Self Portrait.
The shoulder is a new focal point
But, instead of the flash of flesh happening via a Vetements-style re-worked shirt, falling casually off the shoulders, this season it's happening through the dress.
There's a very soft, new shape emerging for the dress this season: it's sinewy, sometimes softly draped, often cut on the bias, usually knee to midi length and sometimes has a frill or two. But, the most notable common thread is a loose strap or sleeve nonchalantly falling down the arm.
This Jason Wu dress is a good example
As is this one from Self Portrait
And this one at Milly
The fashion shirt is still happening
The Vetements effect is a powerful thing, as evidenced by the abundance of deconstructed, re-worked men's shirts on show so far this week. This trend isn't going away anytime soon.
Exhibit A: Tibi
Exhibit B: Milly
Denim Is Trending
Raf Simons reimagined it for Calvin Klein, as a retro, vaguely Western uniform of slouchy boot cut jean and matching jacket. Meanwhile, Adam Selman used it as a canvas for embroidered roses on 50s-style boyfriend jeans, trench coats, jumpsuits and jackets. While Tibi turned it into workwear, layering a long denim skirt over denim tailored trousers.
So, I think we can safely call this one: double and tripe denim is becoming a thing at New York Fashion Week.
Here's the proof:
Raf Simons' new spin on the Canadian tuxedo at Calvin Klein
Adam Selman's jeans and roses
Tibi's take on double-denim
And Jonathan Simkhai doubles down
