No matter how informed you are when it comes to skincare, there are some phrases that still manage to mystify, regardless of how many times you read them. One such phrase? ‘Skin cell turnover’.
These three words are most commonly mentioned by beauty brands and dermatologists alike in relation to the process of skin ageing. And as it happens, skin cell turnover plays a pretty key role when it comes to helping you to maintain that bouncy, fresh-faced glow.
So what’s it all about and why is it important? Time for a lesson in skincare science.
What is skin cell turnover?
Skin cell turnover is the biological process of replacing existing dead skin cells with new, younger cells. ‘Our skin cells are constantly renewing and regenerating themselves,’ explains dermatologist Dr Beibei Du-Harpur. ‘This process of self-renewal is much faster when we’re younger – in our twenties, it happens roughly every 30 days – but as we age, the process becomes slower.’
How does skin cell turnover impact skin ageing?
Like many biological processes, as we celebrate more birthdays, our skin cell turnover becomes less efficient. And it’s one of the contributing factors in our skin losing that firm, plumped-up look. ‘Skin that is regenerating efficiently looks more youthful, as the outer layer of the skin is more toned and even, enabling it to reflect light to produce a youthful glow,’ explains Dr Du-Harpur. ‘As we age, the sluggish pace of regeneration can make our skin appear dull.’
This reduction in effective skin cell turnover often happens alongside a process called senescence – one of the key markers of ageing. ‘Senescence is a cell state in which cells stop dividing and develop unique characteristics,’ says Dr Du-Harpur. ‘Senescent cells, in the context of ageing, secrete specific pro-inflammatory molecules that affect surrounding tissue, compounding the ageing process.’
What’s the best way to slow down the process of cellular senescence?
While we can’t turn back the clock, there are tactics you can employ to help target the signs of ageing and promote tighter, smoother skin. And it all starts with smart ingredient selection.
Dr Du-Harpur recommends Avène’s dermatologist-approved Hyaluron Activ B3 range – in particular, the Hyaluron Activ B3 Cell Renewal Cream. ‘It contains a unique combination of active ingredients, including skin-plumping hyaluronic acid and 6% niacinamide, which help improve cell renewal while reducing oxidative stress, which can contribute to skin ageing.’ Avène’s Hyaluron Activ B3 Night Cream also contains a high concentration of retinaldehyde to ‘help speed up cell renewal and induce the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid’, while the brand’s wrinkle-reducing eye cream is packed with haritaki extract to prolong the life of the skin cells and keep moisture locked in.
‘Using retinoids and exfoliants can also support cell renewal,’ adds Dr Du-Harpur. A retinol sinks into the skin and helps to speed up the cell turnover process from within, while an exfoliant will get to work on the surface: ‘Exfoliants thin out the stratum corneum [outer layer of the skin], triggering the skin to increase cell renewal.’
As well as choosing your skincare strategically, it’s crucial to stay safe in the sun. ‘Avoiding tanning and sunburn is the best lifestyle choice you can make for the health and longevity of your skin,’ says Dr Du-Harpur. ‘UV rays change the DNA of our skin cells, which can be detrimental on many levels, and are directly responsible for accelerated skin ageing.’
To help prevent signs of ageing, kick-start your routine with the Avène Hyaluron Activ B3 range
