Type 4 textured hair – comprising the tightest curl patterns of all hair types – is as beautiful as it is complex. It's for this reason that the hair type is under-researched and, therefore, underserved – representative of a texture gap in the broader beauty industry. The disparity not only restricts the potential innovation, investment and growth within the textured hair market, but also hinders the awareness needed to optimise hair health for the billions of people with Type 4 hair.
Enter The Texture Gap report from Carra Labs. Surpassing the limitations of traditional surveys, it's driven by data and AI technology (the Carra Textured Hair Engine) to provide unprecedented insight into Type 4 hair behaviours, concerns and consumer needs. Bridging two worlds together, this report pushes conversations from recognising the economic potential of Type 4 textured hair to levelling and advancing the market.
Understanding the intricacies of textured hair
Before exploring the report, understanding how unique textured hair is, is paramount. Beyond the historical and societal complexities of hair texture (which deserves its own airtime), the physical complexities of its structure are one of the reasons why the multi-billion dollar textured haircare market is still so underrepresented.
'Even starting from the follicle, textured hair is highly unique. For example, those with straight hair have a round follicle, whereas textured hair is flat and elliptical. Our hair also has the most disulfide bonds of any other texture and the more disulfide bonds, the tighter the curl,' explains Christin Brown, celebrity curl specialist and hairstylist.
Type 4 hair also 'has a slower growth rate in comparison to Asian and Caucasian hair, and is scientifically proven to be more fragile and therefore prone to breakage,' adds consultant dermatologist Dr Sharon Belmo.
This is all why routines and products must be fundamentally different for Type 4 hair to thrive, and why Carra’s Texture Gap analysis and insight should change how the broader industry sees and serves the market.
Problems facing the Type 4 hair consumer
'The data and numbers don’t lie,' explains Winnie Awa, founder and CEO of beauty tech platform Carra. 'We know anecdotally that there are certain concerns, gaps or misinformation for the Type 4 textured hair consumer but we wanted to see if there is a statistical difference or significance in the data,' she says. This is a pain point that many – including the founder and CEO of Pattern Beauty, Tracee Ellis Ross – are quoted on within the report. 'There is never data to support what we need, how we shop, what we do, and our practices. Folded into that is unconscious bias against a vast community of people who are often invisible. Data will help support and give actual information and knowledge of who we are.'
Carra’s Textured Hair Engine has been gathering this vital information for years. 'It has been a long time coming. We’ve had movement in representation and scientists and formulators recognising how different Type 4 hair is, but now it's time for a data-driven engine to scan through millions and millions of consumers across the world, getting a read on the problems. We know dryness is a concern but what has contributed to that dryness? Is it breakage? Nutrition? Genetic concerns? Styling? Incorrect products? It’s time to be super critical,' shares Awa.
Data-driven solutions for Type 4 hair
Being critical is where the engine shines, Awa continues: 'The textured hair engine is built to look at several parts. So, firstly there is profile data where consumers can anonymously submit their concerns through the platform and this highlights an array of different textures, routines and concerns that they have. Then there is the product data, where the engine gathers the reviews surrounding the products and brands that consumers are using. It compares these to the product claims and actualises those that work for Type 4 hair. Finally, social signals gather data from global forums and social platforms including TikTok, Reddit and Instagram. This is where consumers are incredibly active – a vocal community putting the hair world to rights.' With 10 million data points and still growing every day, the AI engine is gathering the information the textured hair market has needed for generations.
From learning that the tighter the texture, the higher the likelihood of multiple concerns, to the fact that 60 per cent of people with Type 4 hair have four or more problems, compared to 35 per cent of those with Type 2, Awa highlights insights into what the engine and report reveal about Type 4 textured hair. 'While conversations decreased around the health of their hair for other hair types, there was a 62 per cent rise in 2022 for those with Type 4 hair – that’s eight times more than other hair types,' she says. 'The primary concerns (broken down by hair type between 4A-to-4C) are dryness, slow growth, breakage, hair loss and thinning, as well as scalp concerns and damaged hair. Also, since 2020, there has been a 47 per cent year-on-year growth around consumers finding it challenging to find suitable routines.'
However, the surprise that funnelled through the engine for Awa was the concerns about hair loss and thinning. 'The rate at which we see conversations around hair loss has grown 100 per cent year-on-year. The conversations are too casual and these consumers don’t know where to turn. Not all stylists are educated enough on the signs and needs when clients want to swap out their hairstyles. Even more disheartening, it may be linked to hormonal disorders. So, how can we as a haircare system support and change these statistics?' Classed as an epidemic within the report, Dr Belmo highlights areas to look at to minimise hair loss outside of over-manipulation styling. Her advice? 'Look at implementing a balanced and rich diet. Vitamins and minerals such as B12, iron, vitamin D and biotin all help to reduce hair shedding. Similarly, managing stress levels is important, as stress can cause excessive hair shedding.'
Ultimately, 'the industry needs to mould around the consumer and not the other way around,' feels Awa. 'As type 4 hair consumers we adore playing with our hair, from locs and afros to having our hair relaxed or in braids. We’re multi-faceted and there needs to be that education piece for brands and formulators that truly understands the consumer.' By understanding the complexity, the market can provide the solution.
'There are brands, salons, formulators and experts that have carried the industry to where it is today. But there is also so much room to grow,' adds Awa – who wants to spark an innovation frenzy. 'I want the report to be a brilliant support. So, for haircare brands, it provides them with a deep-dive, data-driven profile of this consumer. Then for formulators and new product development, it presents an opportunity to look at active ingredients and it also helps brands and experts to communicate with the customer in an authentic way and not in a tokenistic way saying, "Hey this is for all hair types" when it isn’t.'
As she points out, the community has indeed made strides despite the wider discussions that need to happen. With a blossoming of salons catering to textured hair such as London-based Subrina Kidd Hair, Mimi et Mina, Simply Gorgeous, Elite Hair Lounge, Charlotte Mensah Hair Lounge and The Curl Bar to name just a few, there are safe and celebratory spaces for textured hair to shine. Correspondingly, textured hair creators including Jay & Trina, Beulah Davina, Candice Wisdom and Michele, as well as those producing podcasts such as Texture Talks, are creating an important positive identity shift within Black culture online.
The Texture Gap Report is a pivotal piece of The type 4 hair customer’s puzzle. It gives brands the insight and knowledge to support, strengthen and lift the community which, while heavily invested in hair, also deserves excellence for their investments. This report and data provide the cherry on top. As Awa concludes, 'My goal with this report and AI-driven data platform is for brands, formulators and marketers to build a modern, multicultural zeitgeist that is truly inclusive and culturally relevant.'
Expert tips and recommended products for Type 4 hair types
Hair washing can make or break healthy hair, and Cyndia Harvey, hair engineer and founder of This Hair of Mine recognises that marketing typically suggests washing the hair three times a week, despite her feeling that 'no Black person or anyone with textured hair washes their hair three times a week.'
Here, product choice and quality are incredibly important, adds Jacqui McIntosh, Avlon’s European education director. 'Unfortunately, one size does not fit all. By this I mean, anything with a pH higher than 6.5, in shampoo and conditioner for example, can have a very negative effect on the condition of textured hair. On straight and even wavy hair this would have minimal impact. Also, conditioning is key to the maintenance and health of the textured hair and scalp. Salons would need a range that’s low in pH, with high-quality hydration and moisturising factors, which penetrate deep into the hair shaft.'
So, when it comes to routine hair care, Trichologist Shaniqua Garcia expertly suggests that 'someone with Type 4 textured hair should wash their hair every two weeks and alternate between a hydrating and protein deep-conditioning treatment alongside getting your hair trimmed every eight-to-12 weeks.' Equally, try introducing healthy lifestyle habits for your hair, such as 'sleeping on a silk pillowcase, and never skipping deep conditioning,' adds Hairstylist and Blowdry expert, Rianna Henry.
When it comes to brands the experts rate for Type 4 textured hair, the below products come highly rated.
KeraCare Oil Moisturizer with Jojoba Oil
“Its jojoba oil restores hair’s lustre and shine, whilst keeping it hydrated and pliable,” says Garcia.
Deva Concepts DevaCurl No-Poo Zero Lather Conditioning Cleanser
“I highly recommend this for any scalp care treatments as it’s amazing for a quick refresh in between shampooing and it’s rare that dry shampoos work for natural textures but this one hits the mark for being curl-friendly,” explains Brown.
“My holy grail product for textured hair would be Philip Kingsley’s Elasticizer, - it hydrates the hair, adds shine and makes it easier to comb. The softness and shine it leaves your hair feeling after is compared to nothing and best of all it’s a pre-shampoo treatment,” adds Henry.
SOW Minerals Women’s Hair, Skin and Nails Supplement
An incredible supplement formulated to improve vitamin and mineral deficiencies within those with African-Caribbean origins.
The report can be read in full at thetexturegap.com
