The most highly referenced and somewhat surprising influence for the whole beauty mood this season was world politics. Specifically female empowerment, and it was, understandably, felt most strongly at New York where the AW17 season kicked off.
Hair and make-up artists wanted to inject some joy back into proceedings. There was a 'why can't we? Why shouldn't we?' mentality. How does this translate to the makeup you'll be wearing? Perfectly, according to Pat McGrath.
'It's a statement of strength, feminism and empowerment. You can be anyone you want to be with makeup, and this season is a celebration of that.'
Now is the time to meet the fun side of fashion and femininity, with the key trends you'll be wearing, from pink (of course!) to the newest brow shape, all the colours to play with, and the ultra-accessible and transformative hair trends anyone can pull off.
1. Unapologetically Pink
The most literal interpretation of femininity, worn in the most beautiful way. Pink has ruled the catwalk for a few seasons now, it was only a matter of time before it travelled from the fashion to the face. Everything from a soft wash of colour across the lids at Altuzarra and Ferragamo, sometimes into the brows (Mary Katranzou), to electric shock lash-lines and graphic block colour at Oscar De La Renta and Prabal Gurung.
2. Sweet Things
This is super sweet makeup. Literally. Backstage artists referenced retro candy, like strawberry laces (Vivienne Westwood) and yes, Cadburys Mini Eggs at Mary Katrantzou. This means saccharine pastels shades, rounded shadow and overall, a pretty cute, girly effect.
And why not?
3. New Cool For School
For your hair, think scholastic, in the literal sense. That means ponytails, simple clean braids, neat, shiny texture and all the typical accessories you can think back to, but with a kitsch twist. Mega bows took centre stage, most notably at Rochas, where they sat proudly above a clean nape-of-the-neck-knot.
Half the fashion world was already wearing them before the shows were even over.
4. Super Groomers
Rather than cut or colour, the conversation this season was on texture. Specifically, 'rich girl', expensive looking hair. Women who take pride in their appearance and spend time and effort on their hair. It's clean, grown up, glossy - which is not the same as shiny in this context.
What it is not: the cool girl texture of before. Don't do bedhead, dishevelled, undone, don't care-hair.
5. Silver Linings
Metallic make-up - particularly cool silver - has the power to make you look lit up. The prettiest metallic accent is enough to illuminate the whole face, and so it was embraced at the shows, with fine futuristic lines at Emporio Armani, Tory Burch and David Koma.
It's glow giving and eye opening, literally.
6. LOVE
...is all you need. According to Val Garland who took the romantic theme and ran with it at a few of her key shows. At Roland Mouret each model was asked what make-up she would typically wear on a date, then Val recreated it but made it look next-day. This meant everything from winged liner, to smudged lips, to barely-there.
At Preen By Thornton Bregazzi, gloss was over-applied, then buffed at the edges to make 'snogged lips'. Nothing subtle about this season.
7. Lashes
They're back. In a big way.
It makes sense for the season of ultra femininity when you consider that there is nothing more prettifying. Over-emphasised lashes ensure they become the real focus of any look .Just ask Pucci who sent girls out in a rainbow of neon doll lashes to compliment the collection. Chanel went full babydoll while MGSM kept them simple, but statement.
8. Power Pairs
Pat McGrath said, 'There was a time when women wore makeup specifcally to seduce, and now no one gives a f**k. Now more than ever we're wearing makeup for no one other that ourselves.'
This means things took a stronger turn with exuberant, look-at-me colour for true feel good factor. On the eyes it was statement make-up with two strong colors worn together. It's time to have fun.
9. Subversive Shapes
This is non-conformist make-up. Unusual placement, graphic sharp edges, the 'banana socket' (colour worn along the socket line only). Our favourite was Prabal Gurung, inspired by the Womens' Rights Movement. Prabal wanted the women to look 'Really strong and powerful. Not conventionally beautiful makeup.' This meant bold colours in arresting shapes. Whilst make-up artist Tom Pecheux created the strongest warrior women at Balmain.
10. Strong Nudes
Even where the palette was neutral, it was powerful. These were no fading-into-the-skin nudes. Neutral tones are still impactful with toffee, beige and earthy shades. It's still glam make-up.
11. Deep Parts
Sometimes the part was not particularly defined (we love the casual hair flips at Zimmerman and Jenny Packham), but regardless, it's the depth of the parting that always creates a stronger head shape. And strong is what we're going for here.
12. Proud Brows
Eyebrows are still a thing - of course they are, we will always have them - but they're a simple focus. Boyish, blocky, a serious brow focus. Keep everything else pared back for the authentic look.
