Moisturisers containing SPF may not be an effective way to protect yourself from the sun, reveals a new study unveiled at the British Association of Dermatologists' annual conference.
Using a specially modified camera that only sees UV light, researchers at the University of Liverpool found photographic evidence that moisturisers with SPF were less efficient at blocking UV rays compared to conventional sunscreens. They suggested that it was because individuals do not tend to apply their moisturisers as efficiently.
For the study, participants were photographed on two occasions; the first after they had applied a sunscreen and the second time after using a SPF moisturiser. When an area of skin was successfully protected from UV rays, the UV light was absorbed, meaning that area appeared black in the photographs.
'This research is very visual and fairly easy for people to understand: the darker the image, the more sun protection people are getting', explains Austin McCormick, a consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon and one of the researchers.
The study found that the images were noticeably lighter when the individuals were wearing the moisturiser compared to sunscreen, suggesting that individuals were less protected from UV rays.
It was theorised that this was because the participants were not applying their moisturiser as thickly as they would their conventional sun protection, comprising the perceived level of SPF protection they were receiving.
'Unfortunately, moisturiser with SPF just doesn't perform particularly well in real world situations', says Matthew Gass from the British Association of Dermatologists. 'Although it may say 'factor 30' on the box, this study is just further evidence that the lab testing conditions for these products don't reflect how they are used. As a result, although skin moisturiser with SPF does provide sun protection, our research suggests that it's not to the same degree as sunscreen'.
In further bad news, the study also revealed that individuals have a greater tendency to miss areas of their face when using SPF moisturisers, leaving them more vulnerable to skin cancer and premature ageing. While participants on average failed to cover 11 per cent of their face when applying sunscreen, this rose to 16 per cent when using SPF moisturiser.
Most concerning was the tendency for both groups to leave the eyelid - a common site for skin cancer - unprotected. While the researchers expected SPF moisturisers to provide better protection in this area, because of the perception that such products sting less than sunscreen, the opposite was true. Participants failed to protect their eyelids 21 per cent of the time, in comparison to 14 per cent of the time with sunscreen.
These results are likely to be shocking to the 85 per cent of participants who reported that they were confident their moisturiser was sufficiently protecting them. That said, individuals reported feeling more confident (90 per cent) when using sunscreen, revealing some pre-existing doubt about whether SPF moisturisers are as effective as traditional sun protection.
In light of the findings, doctors are warning individuals not to rely solely on moisturisers containing SPF, especially if they are spending a lot of time in the sun:
'Moisturisers and make-up that contain UV protection are better than nothing at all, but for prolonged periods we recommend the application of sunscreen with high SPF', McCormick concludes.
The lesson to take away then: be on the safe side and take the time to apply a dedicated sunscreen as part of your skincare routine. Focus on covering your eye area thoroughly and making sure you reapply regularly. Your skin will thank you for it.
ELLE Edit: 17 Of The Best Sun Creams To Prevent Sunburn
Ultra Violette Preen Screen SPF50 Reapplication Mist Skinscreen™
It's fair to say we've never been quite so impressed with an SPF spray. Leave it to sun protection experts, Ultra Violette, to develop an invisible, ultra-lightweight SPF 50 spray that makes reapplying your sun cream almost too easy. Designed specifically with those regular top ups in mind, this vitamin C and E-infused formula is ideal for taking on-the-go and for protecting those bits we tend to forget about - think hands, scalp and anywhere else that's enjoying a hit of sunshine.
Caudalie Vinosun Very High Protection Water SPF50
Caudalie's super smart bi-phase sun screen combines the skin-nourishing properties of an oil with the skin-protecting powers of an SPF50 water. Non-sticky or greasy with zero white cast or residue, simply shake and spritz for sun protection.
Clarins Sun Care Cream for Body SPF30
If a more traditional sun cream is your preference, then Clarins' modern take on a classic formula is the one for you. Combining high level sun damage filters and plant-based extracts, this lightweight lotion delivers on skincare benefits and sun protection minus the chalky white streaks. Plus, the packaging is made from recycled plastic so you get snaps for sustainability.
This super fine invisible spray makes the boring task of applying sun cream seriously quick and easy. The mist applicator means applying sun cream to even the most tricky to get to areas is a breeze, while the dry touch, vegan formula means sticky, sand-covered limbs are a thing of the past.
Supergoop! Glow Stick Sunscreen SPF50 PA++++
If the thought of a sun cream stick has you picturing dodgy throwback images of 1980s ski trips, then think again. Supergoop! have created a genius clear SPF50 balm that sits transparently and comfortably on skin - ideal for upping the sun protection on areas like your nose, parting or ears without the tell tale white stripes. Additionally, it makes a great highlighter for those summer nights where make-up just isn't an option.
NIVEA Sun Protect & Dry Touch Sunscreen Spray SPF30
A high street favourite for a reason, Nivea know a thing or two about protecting your skin from sun damage. This satisfyingly ergonomic bottle (that's also made from 95% recycled materials) houses a dry touch, 100% clear SPF30 formula that immediately absorbs into skin. For swimmers or water sports fans, it's also extra water and sweat resistant, 89% biodegradable, and free of ocean damaging ingredients, so you can feel reassured even when you're in the water.
Lancaster Sun Sport Cooling Invisible Mist SPF50
If there's something about sun protection Lancaster don't know, we're yet to discover it. The cult sun screen brand have developed a genius sun screen spray that packs in SPF50, is water-resistant, ocean-friendly and even cools our hot and flustered skin on contact. We haven't even mentioned its super fine mist texture, that you can apply it directly onto wet skin and its totally transparent - perfect for all skin tones.
Wave white casts goodbye, Hello Sunday's invisible sun cream formula disappears instantly on every skin tone.
Oskia SPF30 Vitamin Body Milk
If you like your sun cream to be more than just a barrier between you and harmful UV rays, choose this Oskia offering. First and foremost, it's a luxurious, skin replenishing, gorgeous smelling moisturiser, complete with vitamins and omegas. And secondly, but by no means any less importantly, it's an effective, factor 30 sun cream. Smear it and smile.
Ultrasun SPF 50+ Extreme Sun Lotion (400ml)
It might be called 'Extreme' sun lotion but trust us when we say this factor 50 sun cream is a total essential. Ideal for even the most sensitive skin, regular applications of this water-resistant lotion will leave you feeling safe in the knowledge that sun burn is fully off the cards.
Garnier Ambre Solaire Over Makeup Super UV Protection Mist SPF50
An SPF50 spray you can wear over your make-up? Sign us up. Garnier's genius hyaluronic acid-infused sun cream mist is the ultimate way to top up your sun protection on the go.
Eucerin Oil Control Sun Gel Cream SPF 50+
Leave sticky sun cream smothered skin in the past with Eucerin's genius dry touch gel formula. A sophisticated combination of sebum-regulating Oil Control technology, Licochalcone A that neutralises free radicals caused by UV and HEVIS light and added Glycyrrhetinic Acid that supports the skin’s own DNA repair mechanism, this is the face sun cream that really works.
Dermalogica Prisma Protect SPF 30
Protecting your skin from the sun might be good for you, but it's not always good for the environment. With up to 10% of coral reefs being threatened by sunscreen-induced bleaching, it's time to swap your regular sun cream for an earth-friendly one. Dermalogica's reef-friendly SPF provides broad spectrum protection whilst also boosting your skin's natural luminosity. Win, win.
Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water Hydrating SPF50
If heavy, paint-like white creams aren't your bag (are they anyone's??) then this super lightweight spray is for you. Formulated with hero ingredient hyaluronic acid, this keeps parched skin hydrated and protected.
Avène Very High Protection Spray Sun Cream SPF50+
Formulated specially for sensitive skin prone to sunburn, this super high protection spray defends against harmful UVA and UVB rays, whilst the Avène Thermal Spring Water soothes any heat-inflicted irritation.
Institut Esthederm Adaptasun Body Lotion Strong Sun
Based around the concept of using melanin to train your skin to protect itself against the sun, this SPF-free lotion lets you tan the safe way whilst still protecting against photo-ageing and free radical skin damage.
RIEMANN P20 Sunscreen SPF20 Lotion
One application of this genius sun cream is enough for ten hours worth of protection which means no messy lotions while you're trekking through the jungle. Or, you know, sitting by the pool...
