So you've got your weekly DIY facial down, you know your way around a bathroom shelf of serums and you're all about buying the latest product from The Ordinary, but you still get those pesky spots and none of your (extensive) skincare regime seems to work.
Enter salicylic acid. Unlike AHAs, salicylic acid works to treat your skin at a deeper level, simultaneously reducing inflammation (wave those seemingly 4D spots goodbye), unclogging congestion and exfoliating at the surface. To put it simply, salicylic acid is acne-prone skin's new best friend.
But what exactly do you do with it? And how do you know what strength to use?
We caught up with the skincare pros to guide you through everything you need to know about adding salicylic acid to your skincare regime...
What is salicylic acid?
'Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates the skin', explains founder of the Tempus Nu Yu Concept, cosmetic dermatologist and laser surgeon, Dr. Nada Soueidan. 'It is lipophilic which means that it is an oil soluble acid that can penetrate skin and clogged pores.'
In short? It's the perfect skincare ingredient for anyone with oily or acne-prone skin.
What are the benefits of salicylic acid for your skin?
'Salicylic acid is oil-soluble so it's able to penetrate deep into follicles and break down blockages within as well as the typical surface exfoliation,' says A-list facialist and skincare specialist, Debbie Thomas.
'This means it's great for skin that's prone to blockages and congestion. It's also anti-inflammatory so it's perfect for conditions prone to inflammation like acne and rosacea.' That's why that spot gel actually works to reduce the size of what feels like a volcanic spot, because it most likely contains salicylic acid.
If you've been tempted to try an acid exfoliator instead of a traditional grainy scrub, then salicylic acid is what you want to look for on the inkey list (that's the ingredients, FYI).
How is salicylic acid different to other skincare acids?
'Salicylic acid is a BHA which means that it is oil soluble so that, unlike alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), they are able to get deeper into the skin and remove dead skin cells, excess sebum and oil that are often the cause of acne break outs,' says Dr. Nada.
AHAs, like glycolic acid or lactic acid, are ideal for treating the surface of your skin.
'I would normally recommend them for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin, as they can boost natural moisturising factors within the skin as well as reducing some of the visible signs of photo damage like pigmentation,' says Thomas.
As a BHA, salicylic acid is better suited for treating deeper skin issues.
How often should you use salicylic acid?
'The amount of salicylic acid that’s safe for an individual user depends strongly on your age and any skin conditions you have,' cautions Dr. Nada. 'If you have sensitive skin, you can look for less potent products. Salicylic acid is typically safe for use once or twice per day, as long as you use them as directed.'
The key to getting it right?
Check out the percentage on the packaging. For example, 10% might not sound like much but when it comes to acids, less is more. 'For home use, the maximum strength salicylic is 2%. However, this can be combined with other active ingredients which can increase the overall activity,' explains Thomas. 'Professional peels are much stronger and again can vary in terms of how often you should have them, from 4-8 session course over a couple of weeks to one per week.'
ELLE Edit: Salicylic Acid
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Ultra Concentrate Serum
Medik8 Blemish SOS Rapid Action Target Gel
Caudalie Vinopure Blemish Control Salicylic Serum
The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Anhydrous Solution
What should you watch out for with salicylic acid?
As with using any skincare acids, it's key to keep an eye out for any unwanted side effects or irritation. 'Although salicylic acid is actually a very good thing to use as a cleanser because you can rinse it off and you still get benefits, you probably want to watch out for having too much of it or leaving it on all over the face as it can be irritating to the skin,' explains Dr Emma Craythorne, dermatologist and Founder of KLIRA.
What skin types should use salicylic acid?
'Salicylic acid works best on blackheads and whiteheads but it does have some benefits on cysts as well,' explains Dr. Nada. 'However, some cystic acne needs oral therapies to be given in conjunction with a topical treatment to control it.'
Essentially, acne-prone skin sufferers - salicylic acid is you go-to product.
So who shouldn't use it? 'Salicylic acid should not be used on any skin that is damaged or is irritated such as eczema, or infected, and you should always patch test a new product on your skin before use,' Dr Nada adds.
Not sure if it's right for your skin? Start with a low percentage, once a week, and build the usage up. If you notice redness or irritation then consider reducing how often you apply it, or stop entirely.
Day to day, Thomas advises using salicylic acid less regularly and increasing gradually.
'The main thing to be mindful of with salicylic is it can be quite drying, this might sound good if your oily skinned, but over-drying can cause its own issues so don’t over do it,' she notes.
Additionally, if you don't have skin issues that require treatment with salicylic acid, then it's better to keep things simple. 'Salicylic acid is typically for people who have acne - if you don’t have any indication of this then there is no point using an acid like this on your skin,' says Dr Emma Craythorne. 'Unless you're using it for the purpose previously mentioned then I would avoid it entirely.'
Can you use salicylic acid with retinol?
Combining active ingredients in your skincare can be effective, but it can also leave your skin open to sensitivity, irritation and damage. Which is the opposite of what we're aiming for. 'You can use salicylic acid with retinol, it mainly depends on the objective you're trying to achieve and the type of skin that you have,' explains Dr Craythorne.
'Most people would use salicylic acid for acne - in this case it makes much more sense to go for what has the most evidence behind it, which is a drug called adapalene or a drug called tretinoin, as that is going to solve the problem for you more effectively and more cost effectively than experimenting on over the counter treatments that you don’t know what the doses are.'
