Skintellectuals - ELLE's panel of pros pass judgement on the latest skincare trends, techniques and ingredients.
Not to be confused with squalENE (lipids produced by our skin cells), squalANE is being hailed as the latest superstar skincare ingredient that might just be the solution to your thirsty winter skin. Touted by dermatologists and natural skincare obsessives alike as the ultimate moisturising ingredient du jour, squalane might not sound so glamorous, but reports are claiming that it could be the most fabulous thing to happen to your skin barrier since hyaluronic acid. Rumours and Google results aside, we turned to the experts to find out.
Derived from olives and sugar cane (although it is sometimes sourced from sharks as well, more on that below), the natural ingredient is being described as a friend to both dry skin and oily skin, with the genius ability to hydrate and strengthen skin without blocking pores. But do the pros agree? Is it all overblown viral hype or should squalane skip to the top of what to look for on the INCI list? We tasked three industry pros with sussing out the hero skincare from the hot air.
Read on for the Skintellectuals' verdict on squalane in your skincare...
Skintellectual No.1: Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist
'Think of squalane oil as a moisturising agent. It can either be layered under a moisturiser if the skin is very dry or used in place of a moisturiser directly below sunscreen if you've got normal or combination skin. Both dry skin (lacking natural oils and lipids) and dehydrated (lacking water) skin can benefit from squalane in skincare. Squalane acts as an emollient which means it hydrates and improves skin's softness, flexibility and smoothness.
'It's good to know that if you're using other ingredients in your skincare routine, squalane can be added in safely too. It has relatively low potential to cause irritation and is usually well-tolerated even by those with sensitive skin including inflammatory skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea and psoriasis. It is worth remembering, however, that any skincare product has the ability to cause irritation in a susceptible individual, so if you have an underlying skin condition you may want to carry out a small test patch first to a small area.
'It's also worth noting that squalane is a moisturising agent rather than a skin “active” ingredient. It's not there to reduce signs of premature skin ageing such as lines, wrinkles or pigmentation. Squalene (not squalane) has antioxidant properties and may help reduce free radical damage to skin cells, however, it is squalane that is generally found in skincare due to its stability.'
The Verdict
'Nearly everyone can tolerate squalane without too many problems; however, personally I do not recommend my acne-prone patients use oils on their skin as a general rule when there are other textures such as light gels or serums which maybe more appropriate for them. But, for dehydrated or dry skin, squalane will do the job.'
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Skintellectual No.2: George Driver, ELLE Acting Beauty Director
'As someone who struggles with perpetually dry skin, I'm constantly on the hunt for the latest and greatest skincare innovation that's going to give me plump, dewy, hydrated skin with minimal effort. What can I say, I'm a beauty journalist but that doesn't mean I'm not lazy. Which is where squalane comes in. And yes I did think we were talking about squalene for a hot minute there...
'Promising all the skin barrier-strengthening, moisture-sealing properties minus the unwelcome irritation or awkward product clash with the rest of my skincare routine, squalane is my face's new best friend that's slipping seamlessly into my serum stash.
'The best bit? Although a new wave of bright young skincare brands have already dropped everything from serums, to eye creams, and face oils boasting squalane as its hero ingredient, luckily, it's already secretly sitting inside most other good quality moisturisers as well. Simply look for it on the INCI list of your go-to skincare to see if your face is already reaping the benefits. While you're there it's also worth checking if the product is vegan or cruelty-free - squalane can be derived from sharks as well so it's worth confirming the plant-based source if, like me, animal by-products aren't your thing.'
The Verdict
'Great for dry skin that refuses to get its act together, but watch out if your complexion tends towards the oilier end of the scale. Keep your eye out for plant-based sources in vegan skincare products so both your skin and the planet can benefit.'
Skintellectual No.3: Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Cosmetic Doctor and Skin Expert
'For the right person with dry skin squalane can be a great addition to your skincare routine. It helps to fortify the barrier function of the skin, which reduces water loss and helps to hydrate the skin. Squalane works well with other moisturising ingredients like glycerine and hyaluronic acid but, it acts like a barrier sealing in the moisture, rather than holding water itself.
'But, squalane isn’t for everyone - if you have oily or acne prone skin this may not be the ingredient for you.
'I particularly like Biossance Squalane + Marine Algae Eye Cream and also The Inkey List Squalane Oil but it's key to check you're getting squalane and not squalene as the latter is very unstable.'
The Verdict
'Squalane is a lovely ingredient that's similar to the natural oils in the skin which makes it a great addition if you have dry skin. If however you have oily or acne prone I would give this a miss.'
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