Polyglutamic acid might not yet be part of your skincare lexicon just yet – but, if you’re looking for something to help plump, hydrate and smooth skin, it's about to become your new go-to.
It isn’t as famous as hyaluronic, or half as hyped as vitamin C, but polyglutamic acid is the suits-everyone skin hydrator to unite us all. Here, the pros explain everything you need to know – including the best polyglutamic acid skincare products you'll find on the shelves right now.
What Is Polyglutamic Acid?
‘Polyglutamic acid is a multifunctional biopolymer produced via fermentation of L-glutamic acid with bacteria,’ explains Dr. Marko Lens, founder of Zelens. In layman’s terms? It’s a peptide with excellent humectant properties, which means it attracts water from the surrounding environment and holds it within the skin.
Which Skin Types Should Try Polyglutamic Acid?
As with most humectants, pretty much every skin type will get on well with polyglutamic acid – it’s a real crowd-pleaser. Dr. Lens describes it as especially well suited to ‘dry, dull, stressed and tired skin’. There are no contraindicating ingredients (meaning it won’t react negatively with any actives in your routine) and sensitive skin types can get involved with little risk.
Polyglutamic Acid Vs Hyaluronic Acid
So far, so familiar: and yes, polyglutamic acid does perform similarly to your go-to hyaluronic acid. However – plot twist – the former can actually hydrate skin even more effectively.
‘Polyglutamic acid is often compared with hyaluronic acid because they boast similar hydrating properties,' explains. Dr. Lens. 'However, what the majority of the people do not know is that polyglutamic acid can hold up to 5 times more moisture than hyaluronic acid – it's really an excellent humectant.’
Polyglutamic acid has a larger molecular weight than HA, meaning it sits closer to the surface of the skin. This might not sound like a good thing, but actually means your product will smooth the outermost layers of skin brilliantly, leading to results you can really see: think plumper, glowier skin and foundation that sits beautifully on top.
So, why has hyaluronic been winning the popularity contest for so many years? Dr. Lens puts it down to marketing and familiarity. 'The use of hyaluronic acid has been much wider simply because people know that hyaluronic acid is present in our skin naturally – and also because it has been used widely as an (injectable) filler.' In fact, you don't need to choose between one or the other: many of our favourite products actually combine the two, to really double-down on the hydrating appeal.
How To Use Polyglutamic Acid
Polyglutamic acid is relatively easy to formulate with, and so we're seeing it pop up in a wide array of products right now. A serum is the obvious choice: apply yours to damp skin after cleansing, then seal in all the moisture with a cream over the top.
If you don't want to part with your current favourite serum, you can also find polyglutamic acid popping up in face masks, creams and even some make-up. Whatever you choose, dewy glass skin is surely on the cards.
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