Experts have long extolled the skincare benefits of retinol. The vitamin A-derived ingredient is the gold standard for smoothing fine lines, brightening pigmentation and tackling acne, but for extra sensitive complexions retinol can present a risk of irritation. It's also generally not recommended for those going through pregnancy.
Which is where bakuchiol comes in. Pronounced bah-ku-chee-ol, this naturally-sourced ingredient has been making waves in recent years as a gentler alternative to retinol that's said to deliver similar benefits but without any of the potential skin-aggravating side effects.
But how effective is bakuchiol and where exactly does it sit in your routine? We went straight to the experts to find out.
What is bakuchiol?
This plant-based skincare ingredient is derived from the seeds and leaves of the Indian Babchi plant (psoralea coryfolia). ‘There’s a new study published by the British Journal of Dermatology that says bakuchiol is proven to provide similar results in collagen stimulation and skin rejuvenation on the skin to retinol, but without retinol-like side effects, for example the dryness some individuals experience,’ says Daniel Isaacs, director of research at no-frills skincare brand Medik8.
What are the benefits of bakuchiol?
There’s little that bakuchiol can’t do in terms of improving the texture and elasticity of skin. ‘It works by stimulating the production of elastin and collagen in the skin,’ says medical doctor and founder of Adonia Skin Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme. ‘This helps to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.’ Isaacs agrees, adding that it also boasts antioxidant and hydrating properties.
Plus, it has gentle anti-inflammatory powers to stop blemishes in its tracks and it helps to ‘minimise the synthesis of melanin and therefore brighten the skin tone,’ says Isaacs.
Who should use bakuchiol?
If it’s a line-smoothing, brightening, plumping effect you’re after, bakuchiol will get you there. It plays well with all skin types, including sensitive ones, but its important to look at a formula as a whole to ensure there’s nothing else in the INCI list that will irritate delicate skin.
It’s also a great ingredient for pregnancy skincare. That said, Dr Ejikeme recommends exercising caution for those who are allergic to plants within the fabaceae family, such as soy beans or peanuts.
How does bakuchiol fit into a skincare routine?
‘Bakuchiol is photostable, meaning it can be used day and night,’ says Isaacs. This means you can include a bakuchiol product in both your AM or PM regime. You’ll find bakuchiol across various products from serums to moisturisers, so it all comes down to personal preference and what you’re hoping to target.
A bakuchiol-infused cream will give your moisturiser an added boost of antioxidants while lightweight serums are best for blemish-prone skin. Rich bakuchiol oils will work best on parched complexions.
How are bakuchiol and retinol different?
While both ingredients have similar benefits, it’s a misconception that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol. ‘Bakuchiol differs from retinol in that it is a plant-based ingredient and is generally considered to be gentler and better tolerated by individuals with sensitive skin,’ says Dr Ejikeme.
‘However, it may not be as effective as retinol in some cases, particularly for more severe signs of ageing.’ Those with persistent acne are also more likely to see better results with tretinoin or retinol.
ELLE Edit: Bakuchiol Skincare
Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides
What else should you know about Bakuchiol?
Although bakuchiol can be used during the day, lab testing shows that bakuchiol loses its activity when exposed to sunlight after a few months, explains Isaacs. Dark or UV-protected packaging and a stabilised formula will ensure your product lasts longer (it's also worth keeping it away from sunlight).
Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides are housed in UV-protective glass and contains photo-stabiliser krameria triandra root extract in its formula to absorb any UV that penetrates through the packaging, thus protecting the bakuchiol molecule within the formula.
