Skintellectuals - ELLE's panel of pros pass judgement on the latest skincare trends, techniques and ingredients.
By now we're well aware that TikTok is a treasure trove of all things skincare, from the weird trends to avoid (looking at you, salt water cleansing), to useful techniques that have long been approved by the pros, such as skin cycling.
One new skincare method that's currently making waves is dry cleansing. The technique, which has 1.7M views and counting on TikTok, sees users massaging in their everyday cleanser directly onto dry skin before adding water and washing it off as usual. It's very similar to the double cleansing method, except dry cleansing can be done once and not just for make-up and SPF removal purposes.
The main reason behind this technique is to maximise the benefits of the cleanser. How often have we been told that cleansers aren't worth spending on as it all goes down the drain anyway? Well, since the formula isn't diluted with water via dry cleansing, TikTokers claim that your skin is able to reap more benefits.
Read on for the Skintellectuals' verdict on dry cleansing...
Skintellectual No.1: Dr. Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder and Medical Director of Adonia Medical Clinic
'Certain cleanser formulations or textures, such as cleansing balms or oil-based cleansers, tend to work well for dry cleansing as they have lots of slip when used either wet or dry. The oily or balm-like texture helps break down make-up and dirt, allowing them to be easily rinsed off when water is introduced.
'However, this trend is not one I would necessarily recommend (when used with other types of cleansers) as most are formulated to be diluted with water. I'll take dry cleansing over no cleansing, but using water first would be my preference to reduce potential skin irritation for those with more sensitive skin. When applied to dry skin, certain cleansers may be more potent which can remove make-up quicker but my goal is to protect the skin barrier. Two washes with water may be more gentle than one wash without.
'Water is traditionally considered an essential part of the cleansing process. It helps to rinse away the cleanser, along with dirt, oil, and impurities, leaving the skin clean and refreshed. Water also helps to hydrate the skin.'
The Verdict
'I would still recommend washing with water over dry cleansing. I struggle to see how the skin will be effectively cleansed without water particularly when make-up is worn or for those with oily or acne prone skin.'
ELLE Edit: Gentle Cleansers
Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser - £19
Hydrating Cleanser
Milk Vegan Milk Cleanser
Skintellectual No.2: Medina Azaldin, ELLE Senior Beauty Assistant
'As someone who's devoted to applying SPF daily and often wears make-up, I'm a huge advocate of double cleansing - first to remove the sunscreen and make-up, followed by a second cleanse to take care of any residue. Dry cleansing is a big part of this method, so you could say I've been incorporating the step in my routine since before it trended on TikTok.
'That said, I must stress that I only dry cleanse using the most gentle of cleansers with either a milk, balm or oil texture. I'd never do so with any formula that has a high amount of exfoliating acids in it, one that's meant to foam or one that's loaded with essential oils. If I'm using a cleansing milk, I'll massage it in, let it sit for a few seconds and rinse off with water. If it's an oil, I prefer one that emulsifies easily so there's no need for damp flannels (you'll need one with a balm, though). This method means I can treat myself to a quick face massage, and so far, I haven't seen any irritation on my redness and spot-prone complexion.'
The Verdict
'I disagree with the argument that high potency = better effects. Depending on its ingredient list, most cleansers are meant to be diluted in order to avoid any undesired flare-ups and reactions. Protecting your skin barrier is key to ensuring a healthy complexion, so if you are dry cleansing, make sure to do so with a soothing formula (my go-tos are Glossier Milky Jelly and Caudalie Vinoclean Almond Cleansing Milk) that contains comforting ingredients such as cica and ceramides.'
Skintellectual No.3: Shani Darden, Aesthetician and Founder of Shani Darden Skin Care
'You'll get more benefit from a cleanser by applying it with damp hands or onto damp skin, as damp skin absorbs ingredients better. Additionally, applying cleanser with dry hands could cause additional friction and tug at the skin, where you would actually want it to smoothly glide across your face.
'In order to thoroughly remove products, oil, and debris from the skin, you need to use water. Without it, the formula will not lather in the appropriate way and will not be able to effectively cleanse.'
The Verdict
'I would recommend that all skin types stick with standard cleansing with damp hands or damp skin. I don’t feel that there are any benefits to using (a cleanser) on dry skin. If anything, it could be more damaging to skin than good.'
