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Jaime Lee

Whether you’re looking for the perfect engagement ring or a special investment piece for yourself, there’s a lot to think about when buying diamonds. We spoke to Kathryn Bishop, vice-chair of the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council and co-founder of the Women’s Jewellery Network, to find out the dos and don’ts of diamond shopping and how to get it right first time.

Think about the person you’re buying for

‘Take time to think about the practical things, such as the lifestyle, job and personal style of the person you’re buying for,’ Bishop advises. ‘All of that will help to narrow down the style of diamond ring best suited to them. If they’re sporty, work with children or have a hands-on role, something that has a rub-over setting [a smooth setting around the diamond] is probably preferable to a claw setting. It’s also essential, although not as exciting, to calculate your budget so you can edit your search accordingly.’

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Research, research, research

‘When it comes to researching the ring style, you can’t beat Instagram and Pinterest,’ says Bishop. ‘I’ve created a “saved posts” board on Instagram dedicated to jewellery so I can refer back to particular styles of ring, diamond cuts and settings. This also helps if you want to have a bespoke ring made, as you can bring several ideas together to create a ring unique to you. I’d also recommend hitting your local high street to see what jewellers like Ernest Jones have in the window. The way something looks online versus seeing a diamond ring in real life – feeling its weight or seeing how it looks on the hand – are worlds apart. Often it’s not until you hold a ring in your hands that you know it’s “the one”.’

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The four Cs

‘To learn more about diamonds, I’d recommend looking at organisations such as Gem-A and GIA which can provide information on the four Cs: cut, colour, clarity and carat weight,’ says Bishop. ‘The four Cs are the main attributes that jewellers use when describing and pricing a diamond and refer to the shape of a diamond (cut), how “white” it is (colour) and how clear the stone is (clarity), while carat weight is traditionally used to describe its approximate size.’ For assurance, discover collections like The Diamond Story, which covers the full journey from sourcing the stone in its original form to creating the finished setting.

Buying ethical diamonds on a budget

‘Your budget doesn’t have to constrain an ethical choice,’ says Bishop. ‘More than ever today, you can find a fully traceable diamond set in Fairtrade certified gold or recycled precious metals for an equivalent price to a ring with no clear line of traceability or backstory. Pioneers in this field include Ernest Jones, as as all of its diamonds are ethically sourced.' The retailer is a member of The Kimberley Process, which is used to certify the origin of rough diamonds. For standout colourless diamonds, look to the Arctic Light bridal range, which is sourced from Canada's Northwest Territories.

Bigger is not always better

‘There remains a general misconception that bigger is better when it comes to diamond rings,’ says Bishop. ‘Often, that’s not the case – even more so because today’s jewellery trends are shifting towards understated elegance, delicate bands and brand storytelling over “bling”. In some cases, opting for a large ring can actually end up being impractical, or expensive to insure – and insurance is a must for an engagement ring purchase.’

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Choosing an engagement ring

‘Take a look at the other jewellery the recipient wears,’ Bishop advises. ‘Are they more into silvery platinum tones, rose golds or yellow gold? If they don’t wear a lot of jewellery, it might be that something understated is more their style. If they’re adventurous with their fashion and colour choices, think about a design that fits with their experimental aesthetic. A sneaky glance in their jewellery box always helps. This can also be a chance to look at other rings they own.’

Working out ring size

‘If you want to gauge the size, measure the inside diameter of a ring they wear in millimetres; this can easily be translated into UK sizing, which uses a letter scale from A-Z,’ says Bishop. ‘If you’re still in doubt, however, the average woman’s engagement ring finger is roughly a size M, so you can work to either side of the alphabet scale depending on whether she’s petite, tall or curvy. And most jewellers will also be happy to resize a ring first time for free.’

Buying diamonds for yourself

‘If you’re looking for something timeless, you can’t go wrong with a pair of round, brilliant cut diamond studs. Similarly, a simple solitaire diamond pendant will last for decades and can be layered with other necklaces. Right now, emerald cut diamond pendants in yellow gold are having a moment, especially when the diamond is set lengthways, as it sits delicately against the neckline.’ Looking for inspiration? Ernest Jones’ Marquise One Carat Diamond Pendant is a beautiful choice. Wear alone for a really polished result.

Show your devotion this Christmas and discover the full jewellery collection at diamond and watch specialist Ernest Jones