Period costumes on stage and screen have long inspired the world of fashion. Most recently, Downton Abbey and The Crown have provided stylistic influence, with ruffled collars, cinched waists and corseting taking centre stage at the autumn/winter 2019 shows. But these historical references have been given an update, as past and present come together in a collage of old and new.
To highlight the dramatic side to style this season, we stepped back in time and transported Gucci’s autumn/winter 2019 eyewear collection to a theatrical setting from an era gone by. Inspired by Commedia dell’arte, the Italian comedy genre that became popular in the 16th century, the resulting looks feature the new-season frames complementing the period styling.
But don't expect these looks to be completely true to history. We've taken a few liberties in the name of fashion. Keep an eye out for current Gucci pieces mixed in - as well as an unexpected tie back to 2019 in each shot. Kind of like when that infamous coffee cup found its way into a Game of Thrones scene. Only this time, it's intentional.
ABOVE: Ivory acetate porthole glasses, orange feather stole, multi-coloured tweed jacket, silk shirt with Seventies chain print, gloves with crystal appliqués, embroidered tights, socks and patchwork chunky sneakers, all Gucci. Striped bodice, brocade skirt, satin petticoat, frilled crinoline and trousers, all Sartoria Arrigo.
This Gucci tweed jacket and silk shirt are styled alongside a brocade skirt, satin petticoat and frilled crinoline from the renowned Milan-based tailor Arrigo Costumi. Emulating the royal court of France, this look brings fine fabrics and architectural hairstyles to life on the modern stage by mixing 18th-century opulence with tricolour Gucci trainers.
ABOVE: Maxi sunglasses with geometric profile and gloves with crystal appliqués, both Gucci. Two-tone theatrical jacket, brocade skirt, satin petticoat and frilled crinoline, Sartoria Arrigo.
ABOVE: Aviator sunglasses with acetate frame and yellow lenses, utility jumpsuit, gloves and embroidered tights, all Gucci. Ivory ribbed cotton jacket, bloomers and crinoline with tulle bow, Sartoria Arrigo. Hat with feather decoration, vintage.
In another costume, bloomers typical of the suffragettes in the 19th century are seen alongside a hat with a decorative feather, a deliberate nod to the 1920s. Meanwhile, the ruffled crinoline, tulle bow and red circle on the cheek serve as a playful reference to the circus. As for the Gucci aviator sunglasses, the carefully placed accessory offers a contemporary twist on a classical look.
ABOVE: Cat-eye sunglasses with yellow lenses, Gucci. Ruffled crinoline with tulle bow and Marsina canvas jacket, Sartoria Arrigo.
ABOVE: Maxi butterfly glasses, Creole golden earrings, leather choker, tulle gloves with pearl appliqués, floral lace tights and sheath dress, all Gucci. Blouse and pannier in ruffled fabric, Sartoria Arrigo. Vintage roller skates, PWC Milano.
An oversized blouse and sheath dress featuring a Roman-numeral print references the cult 1959 movie Ben Hur. This time, the past is brought into the present with a pair of roller skates and the Gucci autumn/winter 2019 butterfly glasses, which are paired with a gold hoop earring and leather choker.
ABOVE: Maxi square glasses with raw cut lenses, leather choker, embroidered bodice and tulle gloves, Gucci. Dress with ruffled collar and curled pannier, Sartoria Arrigo.
ABOVE: Cat-eye sunglasses in tortoiseshell acetate, T-shirt, blouse, wide pants, tights and maxi platform sandals, all Gucci. Satin diamond jacket, Arrigo Theatrical Tailoring. Gloves, vintage.
In the final scene, it’s Gucci’s cat-eye sunglasses that take to the stage. An 18th-century pannier in rainbow colours is paired with silk pyjamas in Gucci’s signature floral print, while an appearance from Mickey Mouse and a piano (note the double keyboard) subtly bring the look into the digital age.
Special thanks to: Tailoring Arrigo Costumi, founded in 1970 by Arrigo Basso Bondini. The Milan-based company's archive is made up of over 25,000 items of clothing and accessories, with around 3,000 original sketches by world-famous costume designers and designers. Today, the tailor continues to create garments destined for the most famous theatres and shows around the world.
