Since its launch in 1996, Cartier’s Tank Française watch has been celebrated for its timeless, gender-fluid style and easy-to-wear elegance. As the first piece in the classic Tank collection to feature an integrated bracelet, the watch has garnered a cult following and is now one of Cartier’s most recognisable accessories.
This year marks another milestone in its history. The Tank Française is back in the limelight thanks to an innovative redesign. Find out what’s changed and see the watch take centre stage in a short film directed by Guy Ritchie, starring Rami Malek and Catherine Deneuve.
It's a style icon
The first Tank watch dates back to 1917, when it was created by Louis Cartier – grandson of Cartier’s founder, Louis-François Cartier. It’s said to be named after the armoured vehicles that were used by the French forces in World War I. There have been multiple variations of the original timepiece since then, including the Tank Américaine in 1989 and the Tank Anglaise in 2012. Yet its core characteristics — the Roman numerals, the blue sword-shaped hands, the vertical bars on its case (known as brancards) and the ‘railway’-style minute markers — remain integral to each design.
When the Tank was transformed with the addition of a metal bracelet in 1996, it signified the start of a new era for the collection. The Tank Française had arrived. Now, 27 years later, its signature streamlined appearance has been reimagined.
Following 13,000 hours of development by the Cartier design team, the shape of the Tank Française has been refined to form a perfect, compact curve that seamlessly continues from the watch case. This sleek new look is composed of over 100 components, with an invisible connection between each link. It’s this impressive linearity that sets the Tank apart from other horological designs and continues its gender-neutral appeal (over the years, it's been worn by everyone from Princess Diana to Mick Jagger.)
It's ready for its close up
Thanks to its curved form, the new Tank Française is more alluring than ever before. Other subtle design tweaks, such as slightly more rounded brancards and satin finishing on both the case and bracelet, also contribute to its contemporary finish.
Cartier's Tank Française watches
With seven watches in the new collection, there’s an updated range of styles and sizes to choose from. Three steel pieces are available in sizes small, medium and large, while four size options are on offer in a rich yellow gold. The steel model has a silver dial with silver Roman numerals, which appear darker as the watch size increases. The yellow-gold design features a sparkling Champagne finish on its dial and, for added luxury, one of the gold models is adorned with 23 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The sizing itself has also been reconsidered, with the medium watch case now measuring at 32mm x 27mm (an increase in 2mm to both the length and width from the original model). New and improved features, including automatic movement, a date indicator and the addition of a seconds hand, make the larger Tank Française model a standout option.
It has star quality
The Tank Française is back in the spotlight and, to celebrate, Cartier has collaborated with Guy Ritchie to create a short film dedicated to its history. Set on the Pont Alexandre III Bridge in Paris, the film stars Rami Malek and Catherine Deneuve – a legend of French cinema – and captures that Gallic 'je ne sais quoi' as it highlights the evolution of the watch through the decades.
Discover the Tank Française on cartier.com and in Cartier boutiques
