Last night, Chanel invited celebrity fashion heavyweights and fashion editors alike to the North of England to unveil the latest tweed-centric collection.
Every year the creative director of the brand, Virginie Viard, chooses a different inspiring city to host the Métiers d’art show, selecting a location that is at the forefront of culture (Paris and Dakar were some of the most recent destinations). This year, Viard looked to Manchester - a city known for its influence on music and style and, of course, the pinnacle of nineteenth century textiles due to its industrial hub - and made it home to a luxury fashion runway. St Thomas Street in the Northern Quarter, a bustling district of shops and restaurants, was filled with VIP attendees, from Chanel's decade-long brand ambassador Kristen Stewart to Alexa Chung and Tilda Swinton, all of whom occupied the front row.
Excited whispers of what to expect have been swirling around the fashion circuit ever since the show’s location was announced in July. The crux of the 2024 collection, Viard revealed, was an opportunity to return to the storied fashion house's original codes – think tweed jackets, chic tailoring and timeless pieces. A day before the show, a host of press was immersed in a key part of the city’s culture, attending a football match between the city’s beloved Manchester United and Chelsea.
‘For me, Manchester is the city of music. It incites creation,’ Viard explained. Straddling the lines between vibrant pieces and pristine craftsmanship (along with a dash of whimsy and 1960s influence), the show kicked off with pea-green, lilac and blue tweed nipped-in jackets boasting floral adornments, paired with slips and Mary Jane flats.
Further into the 72-look collection came A-line minis, denim cycle shorts, underneath coats, Baker Boy caps, Chanel double 'C' motif chain belts and a mix-match of patchwork knitwear made from Shetland wool and cashmere, emblazoned with motifs spotlighting Manchester and Paris. A standout moment saw a model stride down the runway in double denim dark wash shorts and a voluminous ruffled shirt, sporting what appeared to be an imitation fringe affixed to her forehead.
A more vampy, edgy aesthetic was unveiled during the closing portion of the show by way of patent leather garments, from knee-skimming pencil skirts to cropped leather glossy jackets with a rain-splattered effect.
Manchester has become something of a cultural touchstone within the fashion industry of late. Just last year, Haider Ackermann and Fila’s collaborative line was revealed on the catwalk for the first time in the city. In 2017, 'True Faith', an exhibition conceived to commemorate the legacy of New Order and Joy Division, included Parkas printed with Belgian designer Raf Simons’ designs and was displayed during The Manchester Festival.
