Day three of Paris Fashion Week was one for the books. Schiaparelli, Givenchy, Chloé and Isabel Marant returned to the runway for AW24 in the capital, with exquisite craftsmanship and construction taking centre stage. Over at Givenchy, all eyes were on womenswear, a first for the house since Matthew Williams' tenure came to an end in December, while newly appointed Chloé creative director Chemena Kamali set the internet ablaze by re-introducing the OG Chloé girl.
Here's everything to know about the third day of Paris Fashion Week:
The Inspiration
Daniel Roseberry, creative director of Schiaparelli, once again ensured his vision of next-level couture garments was the talking point of the week. Everyday surrealism was the object of Roseberry's desires for AW24, demonstrated by relaxed tailoring and intricate accessories. For instance, there was palpable tension between slouchy tailored trousers and a corset layered over a white vest with a handkerchief looped into the belt loop. Mona Tougaard was the first model to saunter down the catwalk in a roomy suit sans top, and mannish tailoring was juxtaposed with ties made to replicate plaited hair. The DNA of previous seasons' footwear was embedded into trainers to create trompe l'oeil shoes, and heels bedecked with rhinestones.
Kamali's first show for Chloé rehashed the nostalgia of the bohemian and decidedly chic customer. Unsurprisingly, the designer knows what the Chloé woman wants considering she previously worked at the luxury house under Phoebe Philo and then Clare Waight Keller. Sienna Miller, Georgia May Jagger, Pat Cleveland, Liya Kebede and White Lotus star Meghann Fahy were among the A-list stars on the front row donning the iconic, versatile platform wooden wedges – revealed to be the 'Maxime' heel – at the show (subsequently making for a buzzy online moment ). The spirit of the 1970s resonated with Kamali, who also paid homage to the late Karl Lagerfeld, the then-creative director of the house in the 1970s. There was a notable shift in direction under Kamali's reign consisting of lace shirts, contrast straight-leg denim jeans, capes and trenches with particularly playful buttons and proportions.
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Givenchy's foray into womenswear for the first time without Williams involved a return to after-dark glamour, with decadence leading the charge. Captivating plunging necklines, sheer, draped floor-skimming gowns, metallic heels and a colour palette of smoky greys, navy and inky-black shades permeated the collection. The messaging was clear: Givenchy is dedicated to bringing Parisian allure and sensuality back to the runway. Isabel Marant's autumnal 2024 runway reinforced the true art of layering. Outerwear remained the focal point with oversized Parkas, cocoon coats, glossy, studded leather jackets and fringing taking precedence, paired with snake-print leather trousers, micro skirts and welcome flashes of leopard print.
The Clothes
Standout moments from Roseberry's Schiaparelli ready-to-wear collection 'Espirit De Schiap' included a revisit of the collaboration between Elsa Schiaparelli and Salvador Dalí from AW37, by creating a contemporary version of the 'Shoe hat'. Boots were another highlight as an imprint of a pierced ear on the side appeared, and faux fox fur jackets with embedded six-pack prints. Intermixing the past and present, Kamali's new formula nodded to archival looks in the form of ruffled dresses, Chloé motif belts (soon-to-be a surefire hit), aviator shades, and high-neck chiffon dresses with knee-high boots.
Flirting with chunky peplum knitwear, feather coats, translucent dresses, leather opera gloves and strappy heels, the garments at Givenchy catered to both the maximalist and minimalist dresser. You needn't look much further than Isabel Marant for coat inspiration next season, as the collection was brimming with remarkable offerings, coupled with pieces that tied together the edgy-meets-elevated aesthetic.
The Sets
Editors rocked up to Chloé first thing on the third day to a polished set, further accentuating the clothing and Kamali’s stamp on the label. With a palette of neutrals, the front row of celebrities slot perfectly into Kamali’s vision. Roseberry chose 21 Place Vendôme as the show location, a mainstay spot for the house since 1934. Full of grandeur and opulence, a monochrome set led the way with cream-pleated curtains and a matching runway.
Even with a yet-to-be-announced creative director, Givenchy chose a minimal location – a neutral hall with ochre wooden floors and white walls. In contrast, Isabel Marant was held outdoors, near Isabel Marant headquarters, accompanied by an upbeat soundtrack with Hispanic accents.
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The Front Row
This season felt as though the entirety of Hollywood and London’s It-Girls crossed the pond to take in the couture-level craftsmanship. Kamali attracted a stellar celebrity crowd, with the likes of Sienna Miller, Alexa Chung, Kiernan Shipka, Jerry Hall, Georgia May Jagger, Pat Cleveland, Anna Cleveland and Anne Watanabe to name but a few.
Then, Schiaparelli kicked off the evening with an equally excellent turnout including Alexa Chung, musician Clara and Amina Muaddi – in addition to Irina Shayk taking to the catwalk. At Isabel Marant, show attendees ranged from model Taylor Hill to Kelly Rutherford and Ashley Graham.
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