Milan Fashion Week kicked off with an elegant perspective as Fendi and Alberta Ferretti gave a warm Italian welcome to the incoming fash pack. The collections produced riffed off influences moving from the far-fetched creativity of Club Kids to the more actual pitch on modern women's wardrobes, setting up for the next few days of la moda in the country's style capital.
The Inspirations
In being a Brit abroad, Fendi artistic director Kim Jones often looks back to Britain for inspiration. This time it was the period of his youth, counterbalancing the club scene of London with how the same era played out in the Fendi archives. 'I was looking at 1984,' he said in a statement. 'The sketches reminded me of London during that period: the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, the adoption of workwear, aristocratic style, Japanese style…'
But here was Jones taking references and spinning them into something altogether more elevated. 'It was a point when British subcultures and styles became global and absorbed global influences,' he continued. 'Yet still with a British elegance in ease and not giving a damn what anybody else thinks, something that chimes with Roman style.'
For Ferretti, inspiration came from contrast, looking to how she has always 'explored the balance between pragmatism and poetry.' This was realised in the way slip dresses were seen alongside tailoring, enveloping coats alongside draping. In offering up these juxtapositions, the collection left open the idea of interpretation. '[These] garments that can be worn and interpreted in many different ways - but mixes things up by not doing things as expected,' said the brand.
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The Clothing
Jones' Fendi collection had a delicacy that feels true his work at the house thus far, where draped dresses came alongside tailoring delivered in a form-fit silhouette and the colour palette though dark and rugged still had moments of lightness, be it baby pink polka dots or wispy motifs. Knitwear felt particularly present, with inspirations once again coming from Britain's woollen favourites, but the strongest takeaway was his note on silhouette, where mid-length skirts flirted over the body with rounded precision.
The colour palette at Ferretti also followed suit in sticking to dark hues that spoke of natural earthy hues with shocks of chartreuse and rusts shining through. By contrast to Fendi, embellishment came into play with the designer making a case for a major red-carpet moment come AW24 in a series of gowns to round out the show. Highlights to note were a lace-trimmed leather dress, 1970s-style leathers and swathes of wrapped-up scarves.
The Accessories
Bags are big business at Fendi and here was a vast collection to appeal to the expansive Fendi woman, whoever she might (wish or want to) be. Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories and menswear, familiar styles came deconstructed with in softer constructions than will already be familiar. Equally defining this season was an abandonment of adornment to instead embrace tactility and utility, with sumptuous leathers in natural colours. Of course, there's always room for something new and this show introduced the Simply Fendi, a soft satchel bag that was styled worn in multiples and held in a variety of ways.
Over at Ferretti, its accessories were a reminder of the cosy side of a stylish winter. Fluffy hats came thick and fast, while bags were worn held at the hip, including standout embroidered clutches, and shoes came through in glossy black leather boots.
The Sets
At Fendi, lengths of fabric draped the catwalk, hinting at the make-do attitude of the Club Kids' influence, but with an opulence that remained true to the Roman house's elegance to evoke a sensuality and the collection's running theme of being both 'theatrical and simple,' read the show notes. At Alberta Ferretti, the collection traversed an all-black show space lit by a single strip of guiding lights.
The Front Row
Jones always assembles a front row of friends that hot foot it from London to ensure the designer's hometown is well represented in Milan. This time was no different with Cora Corre, Tish Weinstock and Marisa Abela in attendance, as well as supermodel Amber Valetta and A-list actor Jessica Biel.
The same can be said for Ferretti who assembled an equally Brit-heavy front row. There, Maya Jama was sat between Eva Herzigová, Leigh-Anne Pinnock, Ashley Graham and Jameela Jamil to see the collection unveiled.
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