Lanvin: a/w 10 review

This softening of reality is why Alber Elbaz is at the top of his game. Swathes of air-blown silk cover less-than-perfect figures, plates of glass and pearl necklaces stun people quite without trying. But in a season that is calling for more grounding and less frivolity, Elbaz has created a brilliant new compromise for Fall.

To a soundtrack of a jungle drumbeat, models in identikit black bob wigs wore simple camel coats with rounded, drop-shoulders. Pleat dresses and jumpsuits were toughened-up by studded belts and leather gloves, black shift dresses were slashed on the asymmetric. But this minimalism was mixed with exotic embellishment thanks to Ostrich feather seams, giant wooden necklaces with huge stones and heavily jewelled lamé.

With this diversification from dresses in to trousers and coats, Lanvin is not just the go-to label for eveningwear. Now he fills our wardrobe requirements entirely.