London Fashion Week reviews - Richard Nicoll a/w09

For autumn 09 Nicoll returned to his colour palette of nude, cream and powder grey – simple, minimal and so very sexy. Punk collage prints (reminiscent of 90s Westwood) were the result of his collaboration with artist Linder (who sat front row) and featured pin-up girls and soft porn models with floral imagery, setting the tone for his grown up play on sexuality and femininity.

Head-to-toe tonal nude and cream ensembles were perfectly proportioned and on just the right side of provocative. A-line high-waisted skirts and panelled body con dresses were all ramped up with punk and lingerie inspired detailing such as lacing, corsetry and suspender clips.

Earlier this year Nicoll told ELLE's editor in chief Lorraine Candy that in a time of economic recession a certain freedom comes from the knowledge that you can concentrate less on retail and more on being creative. Wise words. For a/w 09 he channelled this idea in a fairly controlled and mature fashion, taking our current predicament as a licence to thrill in the most sensual and enchanting way. Bravo.

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