How Olivier Theyskens found his Theory

They needn’t have worried, Theory founder and fashion backer Andrew Rosen said in a definitive account of the partnership from this weekend’s New York Times.

‘To me, it’s not a risk,’ Rosen said after naming Theyskens the artistic director of Theory in October 2010, before Theyskens’ first collection had reached stores. ‘I know Olivier, and I know his understanding of Theory. I think it’s a great opportunity. I didn’t need a reaction from the consumer on Theyskens’ Theory. It’s amazing clothes that will get an amazing response.’

Before Theory, Theyskens hop-scotched between his own brand (1997-2001, until his backer withdrew support), Rochas (closed in 2006) and Nina Ricci (he stayed for two years until dismissal in March 2009). For the designer known for dressing Madonna, the Theory tie-up appealed for the stability and resources he would gain by joining the established brand. ‘You always want to start things,’ Theyskens said, ‘but you want to measure the risk.’

And anyway, he had more to prove. Far from specialising in neo-Gothic skirts and frilled coats, ‘I can do just the cleanest black pant,’ he told the NYT.

‘We always see the point of an iceberg. So I’ve always accepted the idea that people—they don’t necessarily know everything I am.’

Theyskens’s first chance to showcase his more commercial skills created such buzz that by his second season, Theyskens’ Theory was one of the most anticipated shows of NYFW. The cable-knit jumpers, neutral chiffon dresses with cut-out backs and languid silk skirts felt like just the things that eve