As much as I appreciate art, I'm not interested in making costume pieces,' says London designer Rejina Pyo. 'I'm interested in a real woman who has a job and has to go straight from the office to evening drinks. So while I make clothes with interesting details, they don't scream at you,' she adds.
Her speciality is artful clothing that is equally wearable, such as a reversible cocoon coat with grey wool for everyday wear, and a mustard and olive jacquard for your bolder moments. 'I love giving people options they can play with,' says the softly spoken Seoul native.
It's an approach that's won Pyo fans including style influencers Caroline Issa and Kate Foley, and the retail team at Browns, which has just picked up her line for autumn and featured it prominently on their newly launched ecommerce site. Pyo is also one of 12 young designers awarded a grant from the BFC Fashion Trust – money that will allow the expansion of her online shop.
Now 33, the Central Saint Martins alumna launched her label three years ago after a stint at Roksanda Ilincic. 'We shared an aesthetic. Neither of us are interested in a brash, sexy woman,' she explains. 'I think about what my friends and I want from clothes, and that's what I design. It's that simple. If I go out for dinner, I want a dress with a bit of room around the waist so I can eat.'
Pyo admits that her aspirations are high: 'I want to be like Acne or Marni. I like to make clothes that people treasure and keep coming back to.'
Available at the newly relaunched Browns, prices from £245