In recent years, centuries-old practices and rituals such as traditional Chinese medicine, gua shas and hammams have come to the forefront of Western wellness routines. For those who share the same heritage as these practices, seeing it in the mainstream can sometimes feel like a double-edged sword. While it’s wonderful to see the rest of the world embracing what you have been practicing all along, there is a tendency for the philosophy and history of these practices to play second fiddle to clever marketing and Instagrammable products that cater to the Western gaze.
Ayurveda is making waves in the beauty industry right now. Originating in India, the history of Ayurveda dates back more than 5000 years with a holistic approach that is more than just skin deep. As more and more beauty brands incorporate Ayurvedic principles in their products, ELLE goes straight to the experts to find out more about its philosophy and origins.
What is Ayurveda?
‘Ayurveda is an ancient Indian medical system of holistic healing that emphasises the balance of mind, body, and spirit,’ explains Akash Mehta, co-founder of haircare brand Fable & Mane which is rooted in traditional Indian beauty rituals.
‘It's based on natural remedies, herbal ingredients, and personalised wellness, all aimed at promoting overall health and wellbeing.’ Ayurveda is derived from the Sanskrit words Ayur (life) and Veda (science or knowledge).
Ayurveda believes that people are made up of a blueprint comprised of your own mix of three 'doshas', or energies: Vata, Pitta and Kapha. Each dosha is determined by specific physical, emotional, mental and social characteristics as they pertain to the five universal elements – fire, water, earth, air and space.
According to Mehta, here’s how the key principles of Ayurveda can influence your skin and wellbeing:
- Balance: Everything is about balance and it’s the very foundation of wellbeing and balancing your unique dosha (Vata, Pitta or Kapha)
- Nourishment: Your inner beauty radiates when your body is nourished. Ayurveda champions a healthy diet rich in good foods that align with your dosha.
- Self-care rituals: Your skin, hair or body ritual should soothe your soul. The Sanskrit word sneha means both ‘to oil’ and ‘to love’, which is no coincidence.
- Holistic healing: Ayurveda approaches beauty from a holistic perspective - address the root of your skin, hair or body concerns for more long-lasting and transformative results.
- Individualised approach: Ayurveda recognises that we’re all unique. Your regime should suit your specific needs.
- Mind-body harmony: There is a profound connection between your mind and body. Stress management and mindfulness techniques are woven into Ayurveda to ensure your emotional wellbeing shines through your skin.
Mauli Rituals, the skin and body care brand founded by Anitta and Bittu Kaushal has an easy quiz to guide you towards your dosha. Alternatively, the Kama Ayurveda boutique in Notting Hill (opening 21st November) offers in-store consultations with Ayurvedic practitioners.
What are some ways to incorporate Ayurvedic rituals into your lifestyle?
For Diipa Khosla, founder of skincare brand Inde Wild, Ayurveda has been part of her lifestyle from a young age. ‘It is meant to enhance and balance me, so I never overcomplicate things,’ Khosla tells ELLE. ‘I always meditate and practice mindfulness, keep fit and active whether with yoga or going to the gym and also doing my breathing exercises.’
Mehta seconds the ethos of simplicity. ‘Think of your daily routine and how you can fit Ayurveda in - it could be from gargling lemon water in the morning and breathwork, to practising abyangha which is an oil massage, seasonal eating which is adjusting your diet with the changing seasons to balance your dosha, and cooking with Ayurvedic herbs such as turmeric, ginger and tulsi or practising yoga.’
What are the beauty benefits of Ayurveda?
Ayurveda is holistic, but you’ll find that brands such as Fable & Mane, Forest Essentials, Ranavat and Inde Wild all incorporate Ayurveda within their formulas. This means a focus on harnessing the power of herbs and plants while working alongside proven ingredients.
Khosla’s mother, Dr. Sangitha Khosla is both an Ayurvedic doctor and dermatologist, so science and nature goes hand in hand. ‘I love incorporating Ayurvedic ingredients such as bakuchiol, amla, turmeric and bhringraj into my beauty routine, and combining them with ingredients such as squalane, hyaluronic acid and peptides.’
Alongside using unique ingredients, founder of beauty brand Ranavat, Michelle Ranavat, also incorporates traditional Ayurvedic formulation techniques to boost the efficacy and potency of her formulas. ‘Our Radiant Rani Brightening Saffron Serum is made in copper vessels in India over an 18-day period – these processes and fresh ingredients are what make our formulas so effective. I also love that it preserves the art of Ayurveda over a new generation.'
ELLE Edit: Ayurveda Skincare
Ranavat Radiant Rani Saffron Brightening Serum
Forest Essentials Hydrating Day Lotion Indian Rose and Cardamom With SPF 15
Inde Wild Dewy Lip Treatment
Kama Ayurveda Rose Floral Water
For cosmetic doctor Dr. Sonia Khorana, Ayurveda’s philosophy of caring for oneself is an important one. ‘It has positive effects when used as a complementary therapy in combination with standard, conventional medical care,’ she explains.
‘We also know many herbs used in Ayurveda have antioxidant effects and when combined in modern formulas with clinically proven ingredients, it can pack a punch.’ As Ayurveda encourages us to breathe and relax when we perform our beauty routine, this can in turn lower the stress hormone levels, thus leading to better skin and general health, too.
What are the wellbeing benefits of Ayurveda?
At the core of it, Ayurveda is all about being kind to yourself by maintaining a balanced body, mind and consciousness through a myriad of lifestyle factors, from a healthy diet packed with nourishing herbs to yoga and breathing exercises.
‘The best benefits of Ayurveda are a balancing of the mind, body, and consciousness which can help lead to a healthy and peaceful lifestyle,’ offers Ranavat.
What are the common misconceptions of Ayurveda?
It might be a buzzy term in wellness and beauty, but Ayurveda isn’t a fleeting fad and companies who incorporate Ayurvedic values in their products should clearly credit its heritage, philosophy, and science behind the ingredients used.
‘Ayurveda is not a mixture of random herbal ingredients. It uses thousands of years of wisdom and knowledge to develop formulations that are clinically proven to help prevent and maintain balance,’ says Ranavat. ‘I've found many skincare products using Ayurvedic ingredients but do not mention the science behind it. It is so important we lead with education and give credit to the science of Ayurveda so that more people can understand the origin.’
Khosla agrees, adding that she wishes ‘more brands used (the Ayurvedic ingredients) the right way, at the right proven levels so the formulas are at optimum efficacy, but also to not dilute our Indian heritage and culture, but rather, show genuine appreciation.'
ELLE Edit: Ayurveda Hair & Body Care
Fable & Mane HoliRoot Pre-Wash Strengthening Treatment Hair Oil - £31.90
Champo Leave-in Perfecting Hair Cream
Mauli Sleep Dharma Bath & Shower Oil
