If you find your skin is desert dry no matter what expensive potions you throw at it, or your sensitive skin is always behaving badly, it could be because you're lacking in one skincare ingredient: ceramides.
It may not be the newest skincare ingredient on the block but it's one we should all start learning about because without it your skin could be struggling and therefore acting out.
What are ceramides?
In case you were worried about not having had ceramides in your skincare routine until now, don't worry because you're skin actually already has them.
Similar to collagen, our natural ceramide levels deplete over time, which as you've probably guessed, isn't a good thing.
'Ceramides are lipids or fats that occur naturally in high concentrations in the top layers of skin,' explains consultant dermatologist, Dr Ophelia Veraitch. 'They make up over 50% of the skin's composition and play a very important role in protecting your skin from environmental factors like pollution. Ceramides effectively bond the skin cells together to create a barrier within the skin’s surface: a protective layer that plumps the skin and locks in moisture.'
A damaged skin barrier can lead to redness and inflammation, dryness, skin feeling tight and itchy, and even acne, so it's crucial to take care of it as much as possible.
What are the skincare benefits of ceramides?
Ceramides help strengthen the skin barrier and one of the positive effects of this is fewer fine lines and wrinkles.
Dr Tosin Sotubo, GP and founder of Mind Body Doctor, explains how they work: 'First and foremost, they play a big role in protecting our skin. They form a protective layer protecting our skin from sun damage, irritants and other environmental factors. Secondly, this layer keeps our skin hydrated by holding moisture in. This combination is a natural winning anti-aging formula!'
It's especially beneficial to those that suffer from certain conditions that often result in sore, uncomfortable skin. 'Those with eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, dryness or those suffering from a compromised protective barrier as a result of sun damage or over-use of active ingredients will notice a significant difference by incorporating ceramides into their daily skincare regimen', believes Dr Veraitch.
Can you prevent your skin from losing ceramides?
As ceramides are produced by the skin, there are a number of reasons your levels might deplete but the main reason is just a natural side effect of ageing.
'Unfortunately, as we age, our natural skin ceramide levels reduce. By the time we reach our thirties, we have lost about 40% of our skin's ceramides. This then increases to around 60% by the time we reach our forties. With this loss we see thinning of the skin and a loss of elasticity. This in turn gives a heightened appearance of fine line around areas such as the eyes and cheeks', explains Dr Veraitch.
Although it's normal to lose ceramides, it's not ideal. Things like cold weather, overexposure to the sun and being overly enthusiastic with exfoliators, can disrupt the skin's pH balance, affecting your ceramide levels.
But there is hope. There are a number of skincare products on the market that are formulated to restore your skin barrier and replenish ceramide levels. These will help soothe any inflamed or damaged areas, to leave skin hydrated and less sensitised.
ELLE Edit: Ceramide Skincare
Do all skin types need ceramides?
Unlike some ingredients, such as AHAs and BHAs that can upset sensitive skin, ceramides are similar to hyaluronic acid in that they suit pretty much everyone.
'Ceramides are naturally occurring, meaning that they are suitable for all skin types. However, it’s important to look at the formulation you buy and choose a formulation that suits your skin, just as you would any other skincare product', explains Dr Sotubo.
It's best to find products including ceramides in formulations you know and love. Dr Veraitch advises 'For oily, acne-prone skin choose a formula better suited to your skin type. Steer clear of rich pore-clogging creams, instead opting for oil-free serums or lightweight lotions'.
ELLE Beauty Lab Picks
As well as our Beauty Editors’ top picks, we tested a range of ceramide serums with a panel of 240 testers. These were the ones that proved worth the hype.
How we test
Our panel of 240 testers put each serum through its paces over a four-week period. They assessed their immediate and long-term hydrating, moisturising, brightening and soothing claims, as well as assessing texture and how it left skin feeling by the end of the trial.
We also used a Corneometer probe to measure skin hydration levels after initial application, and then again six hours later, to see which serum had the most intense hydrating effect.
ELLE Beauty Lab Picks: Ceramide Serums
Some serums can leave skin looking as greasy as a Krispy Kreme doughnut. Not AHC.This fast-absorbing serum – made with French sea water and Hyaluronic Acid – aced our lab test, improving skins’ hydration levels, leaving 93% of testers oil-slick free. The lightweight formula also gave 93% noticeably moisturised skin, with 73% praising its soothing effect.
Key Specifications
Size: 30ml
Suitable for: Normal, oily, dry skin
Elizabeth Arden Advanced Ceramide Capsules Daily Youth Restoring Serum - 90 capsules
Never sure if it’s a 50p or 20p sized amount of product you’re supposed to use? Spare change is so pre-covid. These capsules solve the issue; each individual golden egg contains exactly the right amount. It spread like melted butter, leaving 93% with smoother, more plumped, juicy skin. In addition, 79% reported more nourished skin after use, with one tester describing their skin feeling like “silk” afterwards.
Key Specifications
Size: 60 capsules
Suitable for: Normal, dry, mature skin
Paula's Choice Resist Anti-Ageing Omega+ Complex Serum
Packed with omegas, antioxidants, and ceramides, this was a top performer in our lab test, boosting skins’ moisture levels, while being swift to soak in. No tackiness to see here. Testers reported smoothed, healthier-looking skin, with 93% commenting on the nourishing effect it had. It does boast some anti-ageing claims, which 60% found did the trick.
Key Specifications
Size: 30ml
Suitable for: Normal, dry, mature skin
Avocado has other uses than being spread over toast at brunch – who knew? This vegan formula is packed with the fruit’s rich fatty-acids, to help repair skins’ natural moisture barrier. The milky, lightweight formula was a hit with all our testers, leaving 77% with more hydrated skin, confirmed by our lab test results.
Key Specifications
Size: 30ml
Suitable for: Normal, dry skin
Kate Somerville DeliKate Recovery Serum
If your skin’s feeling more unpredictable than the UK government, chances are those random flare-ups probably mean you’ve damaged your skin barrier. Not to worry, this cocktail of fortifying omegas, ceramides and fruit extracts will leave skin feeling strong. It helped calm stressed-out complexions, with 87% reporting skin felt smoothed, and 80% finding their thirsty skin felt quenched.
Key Specifications
Size: 30ml
Suitable for: All skin types
This luxe vegan anti-aging serum claims to help solve the tricky sensitive-acne-prone skin type conundrum, rebalancing and strengthening skins’ natural barrier. Testers found it was lightweight enough for the more oil-slick and managed to soothe angry skin for 77%. Its formula is hypoallergenic and free-from essential oils – to help curb any flare-ups – which kept nearly all testers irritation-free.
Key Specifications
Size: 30ml
Suitable for: Combination, dry, acne-prone, sensitive skin.
