Whether it's dominating the supplements space or cropping up in new skincare launches, collagen is big business.
And while 'collagen banking' does sound like yet another fleeting trend, it seems that this is one skincare practice that pros are recommending for bouncier, happier skin in the long term.
But how exactly does one collagen ‘bank’ and does it actually make a noticeable difference? ELLE went straight to the experts to find out.
Firstly, what is collagen?
First things first, collagen is a protein that makes up 25% to 35% of our body, providing structure, strength and support to our muscles, skin, connective tissues and bones. Essentially, it’s responsible for giving our skin the appearance of bounce and plumpness.
While the body naturally produces collagen, the production slows down as we age, which is why it is completely normal to see fine lines and sagging as get older. That said, collagen can also deplete prematurely from unprotected sun exposure, environmental aggressors, and lifestyle choices such as smoking.
What is collagen banking?
Think of it as the savings account for your skin. ‘Collagen banking is where you intelligently utilise treatments and active potent ingredients to help build and store collagen reserves,’ says aesthetician Adeela Crown, who’s worked with A-listers such as Cate Blanchett and Demi Moore. She's a long-time advocate for the practice.
‘The idea is to stimulate collagen now so your body can use more of it later to deal with fine lines and crepiness. Consider the collagen of your skin acting like a scaffolding that holds up the architecture of your skin. Collagen banking allows the skin to build up reserves or - at the very least - regain a percentage of what it loses naturally as we age, so that the integrity of the skin remains robust over time,’ explains Crown.
When should you start collagen banking?
It’s best to start early as collagen starts decreasing by our mid-20s but it’s never too late. ‘Even if you're in your 40s, 50s, or beyond, adopting collagen banking can still benefit your skin's health and appearance,’ agrees consultant dermatologist Dr. Jinah Yoo.
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How to collagen bank with treatments
Radiofrequency (which uses heat), ultrasound facials, microneedling and mesotherapy are Crown’s go-to in-clinic treatments to boost collagen production. ‘They allow a practitioner to create a more fertile ground for enhanced and deeper penetration of actives such as topical growth factors, skin-repairing peptides, and volumising hyaluronic acid,’ she explains. To maintain the results, it’s important to commit to a clever (yet simple) skincare routine at home. Which brings us to…
How to collagen bank with skincare
There’s little evidence to suggest that you can stock up on collagen by applying it topically as the molecules are too large. That said, there are ingredients that can help to boost your skin’s natural collagen production.
Dr. Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist and founder of Dermasurge Clinic suggests: ‘incorporate skincare products containing ingredients like retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, and niacinamide, which are known to support collagen synthesis.’
SPF is also a non-negotiable (and is the most accessible) way of preventing premature lines. ‘Daily sunscreens protect against harmful UV radiation that directly damages keratinocyte DNA and degrades key structural proteins in the skin. Chronic exposure to UVA induces hyperpigmentation, collagen breakdown, and is responsible for 80% of the signs of skin ageing,’ agrees consultant dermatologist Dr. Derrick Phillips.
Lifestyle choices can impact collagen too. According to Dr. Yoo, avoiding excessive smoking and alcohol consumption will help as both accelerate collagen breakdown. She adds: ‘It’s important to exercise regularly to improve blood circulation which supports collagen production, and manage stress as this can negatively impact your collagen levels.’
Will collagen supplements help?
Here’s the thing about collagen supplements: even if they're successfully absorbed into the body (look to reputable brands such as Ingenious Beauty and Absolute Collagen), you can’t direct it to your complexion as it will heal areas that need it most, first. ‘However, you can play the long game with collagen supplements and reap the overall benefits since collagen supports most vital organs, and benefits will eventually trickle down to the skin level,’ offers Crown.
Experts agree that while supplements can help, the easiest way to replenish collagen is through the food we eat. Crown is an advocate for good ol’ bone broths. ‘Sip bone broth that’s rich in proteins or eat fish, specifically fatty fish like salmon and tuna. These types of fish are also a good source of omega-3 fatty acids, which have been shown to promote healthy skin,’ she says.
So, should you start collagen banking?
Our verdict: a resounding yes. Considering that it can easily be done through nourishing food and a clever skincare regime (don't skip the sunscreen), there's really no reason not to.
Your complexion will thank you in advance.
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