We're living through a momentous vibe shift in the beauty industry. IRL shopping is booming with the return of Sephora, the expansion of SpaceNK and the introduction of new, exciting brands such as Merit, Sunnies Face (the cult Phillipino-brand now ships globally), and Prada Beauty. Meanwhile, the rise of micro-trends (or the hashtag-friendly '-cores) that range from the impossibly pretty - think Ballet and Barbie - to the grungier Alien and Clown (thanks, Julia Fox), prove that there truly is room for every aesthetic to exist and thrive.
The industry itself is rife with new talents paving the way for the next generation, mentored by the best in the business. With the support of Snapchat, ELLE talks to four notable figures and their exceptional trailblazers to find out what it takes to succeed and what the future of beauty looks like.
Sophie (left) wears cardigan, £1,260,and jumper, £1,120, both Miu Miu. Jeans, £160, Raey at Matches. Earrings, £195, Completedworks at The Fall Bride. Rajni wears vintage Emporio Armani suit, £250, Atelier Ninety Five. Hair for Rajni and Sophie: Heather Dapahh at Carol Hayes Management. Make-Up for Rajni and Sophie: Carole Lopez at Carol Hayes Management
The Expert: Rajni Jacques, Snapchat global head of fashion and beauty
The next gen of beauty taught me: “I am not like everyone else”.
Growing up, beauty was quite ‘follow the leader’. But at Snapchat, it’s all about self-expression: being genuine and authentic. I like to think of it as returning to what I call the golden age of beauty, back to that early-Nineties approach where it wasn’t about modifying yourself, but enhancing what you already have. You can use AR in an educational way that changes how you interact with beauty in real life, rather than altering who you are.
The future of beauty’s next generation should be in the room.
They should know they are supposed to have that seat, and that companies need their ideas and their point of view.
It’s important to treat skin as more than just the surface.
When I think about who is changing the skincare landscape at this moment, I think of Sophie Carbonari. Sophie’s work as a facialist is deep and holistic. If you have a really great craft like hers, it shows no matter what, regardless of whether you’re loud about it.
The Trailblazer: Sophie Carbonari, facialist
I put everything I am into my work. I’m from West Africa; I’m from a multi-cultural family; my sister is Asian: I like to integrate with wider communities and start a dialogue with people who haven’t been to an aesthetician before. I try to consider all types of beauty: my work is for women, men, those who identify as gender-fluid – everyone. My aim is to help people realise we are all beautiful.
I learnt about every skin type so I could elevate my practice. I studied Japanese techniques, shiatsu, traditional Chinese medicine, reflexology...I want my clients to know I’m educated about how to treat them, wherever they’re from and whatever their skin condition.
Great skin is about both your physical and mental health. Beauty brands have pivoted to reflect the values people want from a product. I’d like to see spas and treatments do this as well. I don’t just prescribe a cream and consider it done, I talk to my clients about their skin in response to what is going on in their lives. It’s my job to make these connections.
Isamaya (left) wears dress, price on request, Ottolinger. Earrings, £375, Alighieri. Rings,her own. Natassia wears top, £615, Clio Peppiatt. Jeans, £210, Henne. Earrings (just seen), £225, Completedworks at The Fall Bride. Necklace and rings, her own. Hair for Isamaya and Emilie: Claire Moore at Streeters
The Expert: Isamaya Ffrench, make-up artist
Sustainability is a long-term goal. The fact is, there will always be waste, so you have to make the right decisions for your brand, decide where you stand and what you can do, and stick to it.
Natassia is moving beauty forwards. Face wipes are a massive environmental issue, but remain a key part of make-up artist’s kits. Conserving Beauty’s dissolvable wipes and water-free products fix that problem, as well as so many other climate concerns caused by the beauty industry. Everyone should be doing it. A lot of brands use the same labs, the same formulations; Natassia is developing hers from scratch, building her own machinery, changing the actual infrastructure of beauty production. It’s incredibly bespoke, curated and considered.
Be true to yourself. People these days are much more discerning, and they can tell if a brand or product isn’t authentic.
The Trailblazer: Natassia Nicolao, founder of Conserving Beauty
Create beauty products with impact. With Conserving Beauty, I wanted to anchor the business in thoughtful product development that affects real change.
This is just the beginning...By partnering and sharing our IP, knowledge and innovative ways of doing things with fellow beauty disruptors, we can actually make a big difference. I’m really proud of what we’ve been able to create in the year and a half we’ve been going but I think we can transform into something even more amazing with the right people on board.
You have to make it happen. If you’re constantly creating, it’s really important to make decisions with purpose and think about the long-term game, rather than the quick wins or cash grabs.
By partnering and sharing our knowledge with other beauty disruptors, we can make a big difference.
Emilie (left) wears top, £155, Gimaguas at Liberty London. Trousers, price
on request, Talia Byre. Earrings, £10, Weekday. Cyndia wears coat, £3,150, Issey Miyake. Bodysuit,£98, SKIMS. Earrings (just seen), £225, Completedworks at The Fall Bride. Necklaces, from £950, Alighieri. Make-Up for Cyndia and Emilie: Abbie Nourse
The Expert: Cyndia Harvey, hairstylist
Beauty should be more positive and inclusive. Emilie represents these values through and through. The holistic approach she implements in her work and her general ethos is new and fresh.
Working with all hair types is vital. Emilie didn’t start working for me and then learn how to style textured and Afro hair, she came with that knowledge– she’s even taught me things. It’s a real equal exchange, I’m constantly learning from her and being challenged.
Starting out in my career, I was totally fearless. I sometimes look at my past work and think, ‘Woah I actually did that!’. The most inspiring thing about the younger generation of up-and-coming artists is that naïveté, before you know too much.
The Trailblazer: Emilie Bromley, hairstylist
My work is authentic, balanced and sustainable. What I want to bring to my work, and hairstyling in general, is a sense of well-being. When I’m rested and feel in control, I see it in my practice: my hair is better, my ideas are better, my creativity is better.
Being freelance can often be tricky to navigate. I would love to see – or launch – a platform that offers support and guidance for both upcoming and seasoned hairstylists alike.
Cyndia’s dynamism is inspiring. If an idea isn’t working, she’ll quickly switch it up, start again and build something that works. Her storytelling and the way she creates characters based on whoever is in her chair elevates her work to another level.
Over time, I’ve learnt the value in being selective. When I first started, there was a real rhetoric of ‘say yes to everything’. But Cyndia told me to only work on projects or with people who resonate with my own interests and aesthetic. When I was worrying about how to carve my own path in the hair industry, that advice helped to quieten the noise. It’s better to create one amazing shoot that stands out, than to churn out 10 that no one notices.
Mata (left) wears dress, around £603, Christopher Esber. Rings (from left), £100 each, and £95, Monica Vinader. Katy wears top, £515, and skirt, £430, both Chet Lo at Koibird. Earrings, £315, Completedworks. Ring, her own. Hair for Mata and Katy: Abra Kennedy
The Expert: Katy Young, ELLE beauty director
Mata has this incredible voice. It comes without any ego, which is exactly what beauty should be about – shared and egalitarian creativity and vision. She’s making big companies, that would never normally take notice of people besides the white men in the boardroom, make change. The more the beauty industry listens to people like her, the better and more exciting it’s going to be for all of us.
Listen to and learn from the people around you. While beauty is focused on self-expression, if you want to be a voice in the industry, pay attention to the old timers. When I first started out, I was an observer. I got so much from watching, learning and making the most of the environment I found myself in. I was meeting the make-up artists who had made up those 90s-supermodel faces; the visionaries who had created pioneering make-up brands; the journalists who were the first to report from backstage. What I learnt from them helped me forge my own voice, which is stronger because of it.
Find your people. It can be really easy – even if you’re the most brilliant creative mind – to get quite lost in beauty. Find your mentor, find your people and have open, honest conversations with them. The beauty industry thrives off community. Open doors for others, be kind and respectful. I firmly believe what you put out, you get back.
The age of elitism in beauty is over. We’re a big beauty team now, sharing, talking and making change where it’s needed. Mata’s got her identity, this power platform– but look at her still including everyone in the conversation! Power to the people is power in beauty.
The Trailblazer: Mata Mariélle, make-up artist
I always try to be bold with my work, and I encourage that in others. Beauty can transform: I love introducing people to different ways of doing their make-up and pushing them to embrace their own features – you have the same face your whole life, so you might as well get used to it!
My hope for the beauty industry is more diversity. I would like to see a lot more Black and brown people in positions of power within beauty brands so that change can happen.
Express yourself. Don’t worry about people looking at you differently – just go for it.
People experimenting with their make-up is exciting. Parents are allowing their children to play with make-up – it’s meant to be a fun thing, even though it can be serious. It also allows people of all genders and sexualities to feel comfortable experimenting with their appearance.
The future of beauty is colourful. And varied. Saturated, but in a good way.
ELLE celebrates and supports a rising generation of creatives, and is always focused on discovering the next wave of talent and championing new voices in the world of beauty. To mark this, ELLE will join forces with Snapchat to find and celebrate the next stars of the beauty world. Together, they will show what the next generation is capable of. Head to elleuk.com/future-beauty-snap to learn more.
Photography: Lauren Maccabee. Styling: Crystalle Cox. Styling Assistant: Amrit Mann. Art Direction: Lauren Jones. Shoot Producer: Elizabeth Wood. Interviews: George Driver and Medina Azaldin.
