‘Your toe has gone through severe trauma,’ says my podiatrist, Nikoletta, calmly, as she tilts her head side to side, peering closely at my left big toe.
Excuse me, what?
‘It’s clear there’s a lot of new nail growth underneath, that’s what this line is,’ she says, pointing at the half moon curve across the nail. ‘You’re lucky the nail hasn’t completely lifted. It would’ve been quite painful,’ she explains reassuringly, as though it was completely normal to have your toenail grow underneath another toenail.
I’m at Margaret Dabbs Marylebone, where the treatment menu goes beyond just gel pedicures and some cute nail art. Podiatry has always been a big part of healthcare, but before Margaret Dabbs, seeing a podiatrist was something you did on the down low, on doctor's orders. The setting? Usually clinical and sterile. While the Marylebone flagship is impeccably clean, it’s also welcoming and open, with rows of burgundy and gold Margaret Dabbs bottles, nail polish (yes, they also do your usual pedicure) and even some make-up. The chairs are plush, the staff are friendly; the vibe feels more spa-like than a foot clinic. You could say Margaret Dabbs has made podiatry both chic and accessible.
Next to pampering mani-pedis, the clinic is best known for its medical treatments which include feet and leg biomechanical assessments, laser therapy for muscle pains and ingrown toenail surgery; all done by HCPC registered podiatrists. GPs are also known to refer their patients to the Margaret Dabbs clinic to maintain their patient's feet and leg health.
I’m here to try the signature Medical Pedicure. Once my nail polish was removed, I found myself in the spacious white treatment room downstairs. No whale sounds or potpourri here, just an impressive array of gadgets and a comfortable podiatry chair to help keep my legs elevated through the process. Principle Podiatrist, Nikoletta, starts by carefully checking my feet for calluses (there were plenty), bunions and verrucas (none, thankfully), and irregular moles. She’s able to tell the leg I favoured (my right) and the foot that gets the most friction (my left).
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Next comes the cuticle drill. I’ve always thought I barely had any nails on my small toes, but as it turns out, once Nikoletta drills off the dry cuticles, there is noticeable real estate for nail polish. Admittedly, I’ve never even touched my toe cuticles (unless you’re a foot model, who does?). I made a mental note to maintain this at home, albeit manually with some cuticle softener and trimmers.
She then takes a small scalpel to expertly remove the calluses on the balls of my feet before proceeding to slough away dry heels with a foot file. Everything is done dry, no soaking involved. Some might find the process a tad ticklish but it mainly just feels like gentle exfoliation. Nothing feels uncomfortable.
As for my nails, my big toe has apparently gone through some long-term trauma. Strange, as I’ve never felt any pain. ‘It’s not like dropping the TV on your toe and it immediately hurts,’ says Nikoletta. ‘Your toe has gone through small, yet continuous trauma for months. It’s most likely due to pressure caused by tight or badly-fitted shoes.’ I side-eye my red Castañer espadrilles.
Her advice? ‘Just keep an eye on it and come back in if the toenail starts splitting. Make sure it dries completely after a shower to avoid fungal growth. Dry it with a cold air setting on a hair dryer,’ says Nikoletta. ‘And try wearing sandals or open-toed shoes when you can.’
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Aside from the dodgy toe, everything else looks in good shape, especially without the calluses and excess cuticles creeping up the nails. No amount of exfoliating foot socks can compare to how smooth and soft my feet feel; they look brand new. Trust me, I’ve gone through enough Footners to know the difference.
I’ve also come to realise how important regular feet check-ups are. For one thing, we don’t look at feet closely enough on a regular basis, unlike the rest of our body. ‘Podiatrists see things people often miss, like moles in between toes or underneath the nails that could potentially be cancerous,’ says Nikoletta.
The treatment ends with some buffing to keep the nails shiny and a few spritzes of Margaret Dabbs foot oil to replenish moisture. Almost two months in and my nails still appear glossy, although the calluses and dry patches have returned as I've inevitably not kept up with my foot filing regime. However, I have become more thoughtful about my footwear. Sandals have been my summer go-to, and any new shoe purchases must pass the Goldilocks test: it needs to fit just right. Needless to say, I'll be booking in for another Medical Pedicure soon.
ELLE Edit: At-Home Feetcare
Margaret Dabbs Medical Pedicure, from £85 for 45 minutes. Find your nearest salon here.
