Katya Zelentsova’s handmade knitwear is riotous, disruptive, and fashioned for those who want their knitwear to tell a story. Subversive knitwear has been the Central Saint Martins MA and BA knitwear graduate’s modus operandi since establishing her namesake brand two years ago, and as a result, stockist SSENSE has since gravitated towards her innovative pieces, which are released exclusively through the retailer. Zelentsova’s inimitable craftsmanship earned her another collaboration with Spanish brand Gimaguas this summer.
‘I grew up in the 2000s, so pop culture played a vital part in my interest in fashion,’ says the Russian, London-based designer, sitting in her studio preparing for her pop-up this weekend. ‘Seeing Kylie Minogue in Balenciaga in the ‘Slow’ music video in 2003, and watching a Dior show circa 2004 cemented my love for fashion. It was a total cliché; I knew I wanted to go to Central Saint Martins.’
Zelentsova honed and expanded her skills while studying at the prestigious fashion school (initially a fashion student, she dropped the course to focus on knitwear), before cutting her teeth under Riccardo Tisci at Burberry. She then launched her own brand in 2021. Having released a capsule and MA collection, her method of working is a labour of love filled with distinctive silhouettes, upcycled materials and a kaleidoscope of colour.
Zelentsova attributes both her ahead-of-the-curve mentality and resourcefulness to her grandmother. ‘She is incredible at knitting and crocheting, but growing up in the Soviet Union, you weren’t encouraged to explore a creative route. My grandfather would tell me that he’d come home, and the curtains would be missing, and my grandmother would be wearing a suspiciously new dress.’
The driving force behind the creative's 2024 collection, which was almost a year in the making, derived from a place of grief and introspection. ‘I was intrigued by the idea of gymnasts travelling in the 1970s, and I wanted to keep shorts micro and exaggerate jerseys.’ Inspiration from films, photography and everyday life helped construct her vision. Boleros boast dainty, feminine detailing, while the self-professed ‘sentimental knitwear designer’ produced bras and tops with a sensual finish: metal embellishments are cleverly tacked onto ruffled knitwear, inspired by artist Nancy Grace’s paintings, and seductive skirts – not for the faint of heart – feature flesh-baring slashes with contrasting stitching and cuts that resemble handkerchiefs.
All the pieces serve a multi-functional purpose: skirts and cardigans are styled backwards, and leggings are layered over heavy-knit separates. An alluring taupe bodysuit with balloon sleeves and mesh inserts is one of the highlights of the collections. ‘The heavier sleeves are based on the silhouettes of Victorian sleeves; there’s something quite sexy about it despite it being a chunky knit due to the side cut-outs.’
Forming a genuine connection with her customers is something Zelentsova doesn’t take for granted, and it’s why she’s hosting a pop-up – her second one this year – in her East London studio this weekend with fellow knit and hosiery designers, Gui Rosa and Celia Calderón Asensio. ‘I had a pop-up in September in my studio, and I loved it because it allowed me to meet people who enjoy wearing my clothing. I had never been able to do that before.’
Whether you’re a longtime supporter of the eponymous brand or you’ve recently become enamoured by the innovative knitwear designer, you’ll have an opportunity to shop archive pieces and best-selling knits. ‘I want to give the girls some festive pieces. There’ll be jacquard knits, mini cardigans, criss-cross stockings – which I’ve not produced in four years, plus chunky scarves and fingerless gloves. I create using sustainable cotton and recycled yarns,’ she says. A zero-waste policy is instrumental to Zelentsova’s passion for repurposing samples and using off-cuts from previous seasons means that all the samples available this weekend are one-off pieces.
If you’re not lucky enough to snag a mini skirt or a rare pair of stockings, worry not; the creative is already conceptualising her next collection, due to be released next March. ‘There’s a lot of lace, and I’m reinterpreting that in different ways. Vanessa Winship’s photography, which is largely documentary and portrait style, and has an elegance to it, has been crucial – I’ve been comparing her beautiful stills to images I’ve taken. I’m excited.’
Katya Zelentsova’s pop-up will be held at 122-150 Hackney Road this weekend.
