Introducing: Standing Ground, The London-Based Label Transforming After-Dark Attire

Michael Stewart, founder of London label Standing Ground, found himself at a crossroads when he was 18. A talented painter, the Irish creative planned to enter the art world. ‘I did watercolour and acrylic landscapes. It was “my thing”; I always assumed I’d go to art college.’ But on Stewart’s acceptance into Limerick School of Art & Design, he found himself drawn to the college’s prestigious fashion course. ‘I grew up in rural Ireland, where there is no fashion – people don’t dress up and no one in my circle worked in fashion. It’s a different world; I became very interested,’ he says. Stewart followed his impulse, switched to fashion design and never looked back.

Supported by Fashion East’s talent-incubator programme, the designer has carved out a unique space for Standing Ground. Stewart’s eveningwear – his specialty – is one of clean lines, elegance and precision-draping that contours the wearer’s figure. The designer’s contemporary silhouettes include padded bands sitting on the hipbone, weaving around the body.

Of his process, he says, ‘I never sketch designs. I drape onto bodies and work with pattern cutters to adjust the fit.’ It’s a bespoke quality that has stars enlisting him to create tailor-made red-carpet gowns. Imaan Hammam and Salma Hayek can attest to his allure. ‘She’s been incredibly supportive and kind,’ he says of the latter, who championed him on the Toronto Film Festival red carpet.

Imaan Hammam wearing custom Standing Ground at the 2023 Met Gala.

Tethys – named after an ancient ocean that existed millions of years ago – marks Stewart’s third (and final) collection with Fashion East. ‘I liked thinking about the ways humans interact with such a vast amount of time,’ he says. For the SS24 collection, he contemplated ancient landmarks and their place in modern society. Rather than remaining tethered to visual references, Stewart focuses on ‘the feeling’ he gets from his inspirations. For Tethys, he pulled deadstock materials to create new pieces.

Draping features heavily this season, with ingenious use of jersey in shades of pearlescent-silver and muted earth tones. Elaborate piping sits on the hipbone of sweeping gowns, while beading cascades down the body like liquid. Separates allow bandeau tops to hug the torso, while a notable evening coat in icy-blue demonstrates Stewart’s immaculate tailoring skills. ‘The coat was just a glimpse of what I can do,’ he says of the standout piece, alluding to his first solo show next year. ‘I’m exploring. I’m giving myself time to make sure that I show in a way that feels right for my work.’