The Sundays of my early teen years would often go something like this: after poring over the fashion supplements and earmarking certain suggested trends or outfits, my mum and I would head out to Cambridge’s most choice charity shops. The Salvation Army and Oxfam on Mill Road were favourites, and our challenge was to recreate what we had just seen in the London-dispatched glossies.
This is how my mum had pulled together outfits when she was growing up as one of five girls during her rather puritanical upbringing, and, later, how she saw fit to nurture her child’s interest in fashion.
One particular instance of this routine has stuck in my mind. I’m pretty sure it was in an issue of ELLE UK (I’m not saying that for dramatic effect), where the credit for a skirt in a shoot read ‘Beyond Retro’. We flipped to the back of the magazine and found it in the directory: Beyond Retro, 110-112 Cheshire Street, E2 6EJ, and a phone number. A number my mum encouraged me to call, and ask: ‘Do you have that skirt?’ and then, spontaneously, ‘What kind of shop are you?’ At 13, I assume I knew what a vintage shop was, in theory, but that level of curation and accessibility was alien to me. Not long afterwards, directions in hand, we visited the Brick Lane institution, and just like that my little mind was blown.
This was no longer about finding the cheapest possible alternative to the proper thing. This was the real deal in and of itself: Letterman jackets, Mod shifts from the 1960s… the list went on.
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Why buy the new, expensive iteration when you could come here, to Beyond Retro, and buy the original?
Like many people, however, the pull of fast fashion and the desire to conform saw me forget some of this wisdom as I hit my late teens and early twenties. But finally, sometime in 2017, I remembered this essential truth: that buying pre-loved and vintage clothing was in every sense just as good, if not better, than buying new.
Of course, there is the unarguable evidence underpinning this truth, too: our planet simply can’t handle the amount of new clothing and accessories we are creating, not really wearing and subsequently discarding. Cotton is too thirsty a crop. Polyester is mostly made of petroleum (yup, oil). And too many garment workers are poorly paid, abused and unsafe, while piles of fabric waste are shipped to developing countries to rot on someone else’s soil. Not great stuff, really.
Things began to change during the Covid lockdowns. With the world on fire and plenty of time on some of our hands, resale sites were booming: ‘During the pandemic, people became more thoughtful about their purchases and we saw a shift towards people opting for pre-loved over new items. Many used the extra time at home to clear out their wardrobes and sell items on eBay to make some extra money and free up space,’ eBay’s Jemma Tadd says. Somehow, things have stuck: eBay UK has witnessed pre-loved fashion listings increase by nearly 30% year on year. Maybe the inevitable realisation that the climate crisis is all too real, or that the cost of living crisis leaves little room for high-street hauls (remember, it’s the middle classes who truly keep fast fashion afloat), has heralded this change. But maybe it’s the fact that second-hand clothing has had an image overhaul, too.
All Things Vintage
These days, celebrities prove their red- carpet cachet with rare vintage Gaultier, editors up their cool factor with archival Prada and stylish brides squeeze the last drops of individuality a traditional wedding can offer with an antique veil (guilty as charged). What better antidote to the TikTok influencer with everything from their bin liners to their baby’s socks tagged in their Amazon storefront, than telling your followers that you’re sorry, but you picked up this shirt in a cute vintage shop in Berlin so you’re not sure where they could get one.
Yes, it’s better for the world, and yes, you get more bang for your buck. But heck, it’s also just, dare I say, cooler.
Ask An Expert
We ask the women who love to buy and sell vintage what you want to know.
Tish Weinstock
The beauty editor and writer on choosing the ultimate ‘Something Old'.
'I always knew I wanted something that felt a bit goth and ghostly for my wedding dress, and it’s a feel you can’t really create with modern materials, especially when it comes to lace. I’m drawn to anything faded, age-weathered and diaphanous. Furthermore, the sense of age and history that comes with vintage clothing adds to the overall romanticism of the look.
'A vintage dealer told me about Jane Bourvis, who collects vintage wedding dresses. I went to meet her and see her collection. While she had wonderful pieces, none of them felt quite right, but she showed me a piece of Normandy lace she’d bought at auction. Together we created a silhouette out of it to form the perfect dress: Morticia meets Miss Havisham.
'My advice for other brides looking for a vintage dress is: start the search early. Create moodboards and keep your eyes peeled. If you can’t find something you love, consider creating something out of vintage pieces or customising dresses.'
Ruby Redstone
The fashion historian and writer explains why she never saves vintage for best.
'I don’t really believe in saving any clothes for special occasions, but that applies particularly to vintage.
'I get lots of messages from people who want to check with a fashion historian that it’s OK to change something about a vintage piece they’ve purchased. My answer: if altering any garment means that you will wear it more, by all means do it.
'Wasteful overproduction has plagued the fashion industry since the Industrial Revolution, and the volume of unworn, unused clothing in the world only grows greater with every passing moment. Anything that you can do to keep clothing in your closet rather than in a landfill is admirable.
'It is not the job of any vintage shopper to act as a conservator, and the reality is that if a garment has made it to your local vintage or thrift shop, it is probably not an undiscovered historical gem.'
Londiwe Ncube
How the fashion editor, stylist and vintage-shop owner weaves pre-loved into her life.
'I started second-hand shopping when I got my first job, because I loved all the unique pieces I found in charity shops and the quality was so much better than the high street. My wardrobe now is a collection of all those years of thrifting, and there are so many incredible stories and memories attached to the pieces.
'I reach for vintage and pre-loved pieces that are timeless, like tailored pants or leather blazers. They are so versatile, so I can easily incorporate them into my looks. I have a lot of vintage menswear blazers that work for office, nursery drop-off or evening looks, and I love that.
'I launched my vintage store Atijo as I really wanted to bring a more curated and conceptual approach to circular fashion, and to banish the notion that pre-loved clothes were not modern or luxurious. The attitude towards vintage and pre-loved has come such a long way since we launched, which is really amazing to see.'
Hanushka Toni
Sellier’s founder and CEO gives inside intel on buying vintage designer bags.
'The most important rule when looking for a specific vintage bag is to check the reputation and credibility of online sellers or platforms through reviews, word of mouth and Trustpilot. Ensure a platform is using a verified authenticity service to ensure you don’t get scammed or sold a fake. Scrutinise item descriptions and photos, and ask for more information if needed. Check the seller’s return policy, so you can apply for a refund if the item isn’t what you expected.
'Vintage bags tend to have different authenticity signs compared to their counterparts produced today so, where possible, I’d advise seeking out a specialist to check if the bag is genuine before you buy.
'Once you’ve found the perfect piece, take a second to check the price against other competitor resale sites; if it’s significantly lower than any others, something might be not quite right.'
Lauren Roffle
The fashion PR found her love of thrifting abroad when travelling around the US as a child.
'I’ve been very fortunate to spend a lot of my vintage shopping trips with renowned fashion editor Lynn Yaeger – the fairy godmother of vintage – who over the years has helped me hone my vintage sourcing and shown me the importance of developing relationships with some of the most incredible dealers from around the world.
'The way I approach vintage shopping is never about a designer label – it’s about the prints, cut and quality. When travelling, I start with researching local flea markets. They have some of the best options and typically lower prices. Also, just walk the city and be curious: ask locals you meet at cafés for their favourite vintage shops.
'My best-loved buys tend to include coats: they always make a great statement and last so well over the years. I have a special purple-leather shearling-lined coat from the Hammersmith Vintage Fair, and an American vintage canvas coat from the Silverlake Flea market in LA.'
Davina Wedderburn
The British Fashion Council’s head of brand and communications charts her challenges and successes buying plus-size vintage.
'The lack of availability is the biggest challenge to finding vintage and pre-loved pieces above a UK size 14. The supply issue is top down – it is shocking that many retailers still don’t offer a wide range of sizes, and as a direct result of this, the selection becomes even more limited when you get to vintage.
'My tips would be: look for quality. If you can, avoid buying second-hand fast fashion and focus on quality brands. Seek out investment and rare pieces that are going to wear well and last you a lifetime.
'Be patient. Second-hand stores often have a wide variety of items and therefore require more time for searching – especially if you are seeking a plus-size gem.
'And be open. Don’t overlook incredible pieces. I often go into thrifting with a very specific piece in mind and in doing so have left behind some really great items.'
Amy Bannerman
Stylist and eBay’s pre-loved style director gives tips to finding vintage on the resale site.
'My first tip when shopping pre-loved would be to go in with a plan. There’s a huge variety of items that can become overwhelming, especially when you don’t know exactly what you’re looking for. Search for the pieces you’ve always wanted, – it’s good to have specific items in mind. I often seek out inspiration from social media or the catwalks before heading onto eBay.
'Try spelling things incorrectly: I’ve found some mega bargains that way. Similarly, experiment with using alternative search words. For example, if something is diamanté someone else might describe it as shiny, sparkly or sequinned.
'One of my biggest tips is to shop out of season. When winter comes around, everyone is looking for that same coat and not only will it mean your chances of winning that item are lower, but it will also mean the price will be inflated. Beat the crowds by searching for that jacket you’ve been dreaming of in summer and that summer dress in winter.'
Saved Searches
The ELLE UK contributing editors tell us what they look for and where.
Aja Barber
Author
'I haven’t bought a new pair of denim jeans in years – I mostly buy second-hand Levi’s.
'I love early Acne Studios pieces and am always on the prowl for them. I also buy a lot of my boots second-hand from the brand.
'A shuttered brand I’m always looking for is Back Beat Co. I really miss them.'
Camille Charrière
Broadcaster
'I was on the hunt for a Prada pony-hair, leopard-print bag and in doing so came across my Alaïa tote on Vestiaire Collective that I can’t live without.
'A gold Cartier watch is on my life wish list, but I don’t have the funds for it currently, so I just like admiring them.
'I’m always looking for anything from Tom Ford’s Gucci (self explanatory), Chanel shorts (my dry cleaner lost the pair I wore when I got engaged, so I’m hoping to get lucky), anything in Dolce & Gabanna cherry print and Gianni Versace dresses.'
Aurelia Donaldson
Stylist
'I live down the road from Portobello market, so on Fridays, after I drop my daughter off at school, I check all my favourite stalls to see what they have. There are still so many great sellers that go every week.
'I spend a lot of time on Vestiaire and eBay, I can get lost for hours. My go-to saved online searches are normally vintage Alexander McQueen, Tom Ford (at Gucci or early Tom Ford) and Nineties Prada.
'The specific pieces I search for are a floor-length grey coat from Haider Ackermann and an apron-tie long skirt by Dries Van Noten. They are the two pieces that I have always regretted not buying.'
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