Rahel Stephanie
Free-spirted and ever-changing
Pedas, the Indonesian word for spicy, is how Rahel Stephanie describes her style, which she explains is an extension of her ‘fiery personality.’ What does that look like? Sexy, and short. Very short. ‘If I feel shit and I put on a mini skirt, I suddenly feel powerful,’ says the chef and founder of Indonesian supper club, Spoons. ‘I could absolutely get into that kitchen and start throwing down some instructions!’ she laughs, likening the effect of a high hemline to a superpower.
It wasn’t always this way. Growing up, Stephanie was plagued by insecurities. Born in Jakarta and raised in Singapore, she came to London 11 years ago and decided to ‘start afresh in every single way, including how I perceived myself. Building that confidence reshaped my idea of how I wanted to dress.’ Today she has a ‘massive pet peeve’ about fashion diktats, particularly those about what is (supposedly) flattering. ‘I encourage people to try on an outfit without preconceptions. It’s about how you feel,’ she says, adding that even the most conventionally, obviously sexy outfit will look awkward as hell if worn hesitantly.
Stephanie’s favourite way to get ready is to ‘get two to three outfit options, try them on, take selfies, drop them in the group chat and let the girlies deliberate on which looks best’ (she returns the favour). Sometimes she knows a week ahead what she wants to wear; often it comes down to mood. On days when she’s in the kitchen, it’s baggy Stüssy or Lazy Oaf pants – but, of course, with a pedas kick. ‘If I’m going to be sweating and covered in grease, at least I’ll be cute doing it’.
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Kate Brindley
Planned to perfection
‘I used to take hours to get ready in the – much to the annoyance of friends that I lived with, or partners. I’ve really cut it down,’ says Kate Brindley, the marketing and culture director of the Standard hotel in London, and a lover of colour and sartorial drama.
Since skincare is a non-negotiable part of her routine, Brindley’s time-saving hack is wardrobe related. ‘I always pull out what I’m going to wear the night before. If I don’t have an idea of what I’m wearing in the morning, it will really throw me.’ Think that’s organised? She’ll often have outfits in mind for the whole week. ‘It’s just easier that way. It frees up so much time’.
Things Brindley thinks about when she’s prepping include, ‘what I’m doing, where I’m going, how I need to get there, even “can I wear heels?”’ Still, she says, the best-laid plans are liable to change if her mood changes or the weather. When she has one of those inevitable ‘nothing to wear’ moments, Brindley likes to delve deeper into her wardrobe – split into summer and winter and organised by colour – to rediscover things.
A dress woman through and through (a pair of Karoline Vitto Belly Button trou- sers and Wales Bonner Adidas trackies – great with a vintage Alaïa bodysuit – have enticed her to the other side, however), Brindley loves them for their ease. Her go-to is an Issey Miyake Pleats Please dress, and she adores the work of her friend Roksanda Ilinčić. ‘A lot of people would think of me as being quite dressed up. I always like to dress up rather than down. Ideally, I would put on the same thing and go through to the evening, and just maybe change my shoes and bag and put on more lipstick,’ she says.
A pro at getting the most out of her wardrobe, Brindley recommends using a tailor (she is ‘super super lucky’ to count ‘the best tailor in the world’ Paul Rawson as a friend), and advises not being afraid to wear things on repeat. ‘If you invest in something, it’s really good to enjoy it’.
Isabella Burley
The power of a tight edit
Splitting her time between London and Stockholm, Isabella Burley is never in one time zone for long, and is just as likely to find herself in Paris or New York. This spurs a fluid approach to style. ‘The way I dress really revolves around where I am, what I’m doing. I think each city defines the way you dress and you feel. You navigate a city through clothing and how you want to express yourself,’ she says.
The CMO of Acne Studios and founder of Climax Books – the cult book- store beloved by art and fashion insiders dedicated to showcasing overlooked books and ephemera – she is a masterful multitasker and an equally proficient packer. ‘I never check luggage any more, so it has to fit [in a carry-on],’ she says. This peripatetic lifestyle has made it a bit easier to live out of boxes while she is currently completing a house renovation in London.
Any advice for efficient travelling? Ask yourself, ‘What do you actually need? What are you going to wear?’ she says. And then adds with a laugh: ‘I say that, but often I’ll get to Stockholm and find, oh, I didn’t pack any socks or toothpaste. No matter how regimented I’ve got, it still often goes wrong!’
For Burley, however, a splash of the wrong is where an outfit comes to life. A grey Prada sweater with sculpted boob details epitomises what she leans towards. ‘Quite classic and low-key, but having this slightly perverse twist or some element that throws an outfit off. I think that’s what I come back to, wherever I am.’
Wherever she is, she takes an hour to herself in the morning, for an exercise class or a matcha. Outfits might be ‘planned a bit in my head, but I think you also have to be open to your mood and how you feel in that moment’. One non-negotiable? ‘You should always feel powerful and empowered in what you’re wearing. There’s nothing worse than being in a situation where you’re uncomfortable or nervous and don’t feel good in what you’re wearing.’
MADELEINE ØSTLIE
The need for speed
‘Bang it on. Great shoes. Go.’ That is Madeleine Østlie’s getting-ready philosophy in a no-nonsense nutshell. ‘I love full looks and I wear dresses, because I like to get dressed quickly.’ What does ‘quickly’ look like specifically? ‘Taking 10-15 minutes and a couple of cancelled cabs!’
Having an organised closet helps with speed. Despite the scope and variety of her clothing collection, pieces are stored with a meticulous rigour that would make a librarian proud (‘by category, then by colour co-ordination, then by material’). ‘I know my wardrobe without being in my wardrobe: exactly where everything is, and everything I have.’
This mix of attention to detail, knowledge, passion and energy to spare has made the co-founder of AAMØ Casting one of the most in-demand casting directors in fashion. Working with both luxury giants and independent talents like Dilara Findikoğlu, Priscavera and Olly Shinder, Østlie’s boundless exuberance matches her vivacious sense of style. She loves sheer (‘I’ve got small titties so I go to town!’) and ‘fun, jolly suits’ worn with Martine Rose Shox. A Valentino leopard-print shirt is ‘my winner winner, chicken dinner. Terribly expensive, but has served me incredibly well,’ and a red vegan-leather Ganni Bou bag is her favourite of this season (‘Ditte is the best!’). She is also tireless about championing young UK-based designers in a post-Brexit climate. ‘They need our support more than ever.’
Although she may ‘tweak rather than adapt’ her style depending on which client she is working with, Østlie admits ‘I can only do so much to rein it in!’ Which is good news for those around her. ‘I really enjoy my outfits. I definitely get dressed for myself. But when you feel joyful, you give joy,’ she says. ‘If you’re doing something for yourself, it allows you to develop your own personal taste. When you do anything for anyone else, it’s just endless keeping up appearances and taking on the taste of others.’
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